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Are "stage 1 kits" a bunch of hype or are they the real deal?

L

Lex_Talionis

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Jul 24, 2014
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Put V&H twin slash slip ons on the bike last summer. I just received my V&H fp3 tuner and am getting ready to install a de-catted header pipe. I am still trying to figure out the high flow air filter/breather part. Once I do, I'll put the rest of this together.

I had planned on using Fuel Moto's pro billet stage 1 kit which keeps the stock cover because it seems very functional and is only 150 bucks. I've looked at several other products but few have any details about how effective they are (flow rates, percentage of air flow better than stock, etc). I like facts & details and no one seems to have any.

Before I narrow it down for sure & buy something, I was wondering if all these air filter/breather products are just a bunch of hype. Is there really any value in some of these 4 or 500 dollar fixtures? Does a 150 dollar filter do any less than a 500 dollar one?

None of the websites (outside of one with Fuel Moto) list air flow rates with their filters, how much more percentage wise their units are better than stock, etc. So I wondering if it is because "stage 1" is more of a marketing gimmick than reality....

The big question in my mind right now is, could a larger filter put into my 2014 street glide air box do the exact same thing a "stage 1 kit" would do?

If not, how would an expensive one work any better than a larger filter in the one I already have?

I like the looks of many of the aftermarket breather kits, but is that all you are really paying for???
 
Yes, a larger filter in your stock air box would flow more air and it would then be considered a stage I. Aftermarket units flow way more air than any reasonable motorcycle engine will use and generally will have a smoother inside air passage to promote better flow. Any benefits are most noticable at higher RPMs when the engine wants more air.
Big advantage of stage I is a cooler running engine as a result of more airflow and remapping the ECM to aleiviate the lean a/f mixture associated with a stock engine.
A stage I upgrade will give you a bit more HP & TQ that you should feel when you are riding.
I am satisfied with the FM air box, free flowing mufflers, and HD stage I ECM flash. Bike runs stronger and cooler.


Blues
 
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Stage I kits are simply about flowing more air and properly tuning. More air in with filter, more air out with pipes, proper fuel mix with tuner means better running bike. Most of the stage one choices are purely about aesthetics. As long as the components work fairly well together you get a better, cooler running bike that sounds good. For stage one pick what appeals to you. When you go stage II and up, numbers become much more important.


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I think the big thing is getting rid of the breather from going back into the throttle body. You are getting rid of warm polluted air into your intake by rerouting this. I did the reroute of the breather myself and then stuck with the stock AC because I do think (if you are leaving the engine stock) it is all gimmick and a waste of money.
Also, from what I have read from real research, those oil type filters let in more dirt than stock AC filters. There are a couple scientific studies I have found online about this subject.
 
The breathers flow a tiny bit of blow-by gasses through a couple of little valves in the heads. Most all the oil is separated out if the breather valves are not damaged. Nothing to worry about here.

Oiled gauze filters do let more dirt through. This is highly dependent on the particle size and the air flow per unit of filter surface area. A big oiled gauze filter on a small motor works pretty good. A small K&N cone on a 600 HP V-8 is not a good idea.

The 103 H-D Twin Cam HO engine went up 10% in power for 2014. Harley said 5% from the cam change and 5% from the new air intake.

Stage-1 brings real power if done correctly.

Plenty of good data:
fullsac
fuelmotousa
utahharleytech
 
Just completed stage 1 on 14 SGS. Set up is 4" Rinehart slip ons, S&S Cycle power tune duals, Direct Link Tuner and Dyno tuned. I did add an Air Cleaner that fits stock cover like what's being discussed here (Arlen Ness Stage 1 Big Sucker) but jury is out on whether that improved performance or not. Stock is probably sufficient until you get into more engine mods. Filter gets washed and re oiled at every 5K maintenance interval, no other upkeep of filter is required.
END RESULT: Huge difference in sound with a little added HP & Torque compared to stock. Really feels and sounds like the Harley I wanted from the beginning now. Highly recommend it. It's a big investment BUT the bike really "comes to life" when you let it breathe the way it was designed to.
 
I did the stage 1 as well with catless ceramic head pipes, slip-ons a Tuner and Dyno. You can see my numbers below in my signature. I can really feel the difference from a stock setup too.
If I were doing another bike I would remove cat from my stock headpipe,add slip-ons, keep the stock A/C and add a Vance & Hines FP3 auto tuner. Or, might get a complete system from Fuel Moto They're good and also a sponsor here on SGF.
 
msquad said:
You can check out
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/air-filter-filtration-test/

I'm careful when I post this stuff because seems people are sooooo sensitive that all that money they spent on their aftermarket air filter was the right thing to do. But again for me, if engine is stock, I think it is a waste.
Click to expand...

Thanks, msquad, for the links to the study. I'd like to see something of that nature done on motorcycle filters one day. I will make a decision on what to do soon because it was 70 today in Nashville.
 
I was originally considering the Fuel Moto Pro Billet Stage 1 kit, but after much consideration, I am likely going to just replace the stock air filter with a drop in one. K&N makes one that looks too much like the stock one, but will surely flow more.

Anybody know if one of the round aftermarket filters will drop into the 2014 & up air boxes? If I don't have to modify anything, I'd rather buy a bigger filter than the stock looking K&N one.
 
Imo.. if you passing more are threw the rear you need to bring more in.. I have changed every cold air intake or at least high flow filter on every vehicle I have owned in the last 15 years. I have always seen small gains that are worth the investment. My two cents


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I know this is probably a belabored point regarding intakes, ecm and exhaust. there is a science that supports intake and exhaust requirements, which I take no claim to have mastered. but I thought I would add my two cents for those that that may not be gear head enthusiast but want to add parts. understanding the basics CFM at the air intake of the of the carb/throttle body and exhaust may help those not so mechanically inclined or inspired.

1. Intake. example, at max rpm, a 500 cfm rating of the carb intake, measured at the internal diameter of the venturi bore. resolved, any airflow rating at the air filter greater than 500 cfm is of no effect, any less CFM would restrict horsepower/tq. production. so, air filter CFM should be atleast equal to intake cfm rating.
2. Exhaust, there is a formula used to determine this flow as well, based on engine displacement and intake cfm, rpm ranges and so on. these formulas will resolve efficient exhaust pipe diameters and area to evacuate exhaust gases and over come flow restrictions such as cats and bends in pipes. slip-on CFM matters, should be equal to or greater than manifold/header pipes.
3. ECM, almost gone are the days of naturally aspirated, gravity fed fuel dripping carbs. mass of fuel + mass of air intake = mass of exhaust, all these vary throughout your different rpm ranges of the motor and produce a variance of power throughout those ranges. your stock ECM is fixed formulated to handle OEM configuration for mass of fuel + mass of air intake = mass of exhaust for your stock set-up. The ECM that does the most sampling and sensing throughout the systems can produce better formulas to manage more effectively and efficiently.

CFM is a fixed formula based on engine displacement (cubic inch) and effective vs. efficient. I will go out on a limb and say I am feel certain HD has put a lot of science behind the stock set-up to squeeze as much displacement, HP, TQ while maintaining OEM established guidelines and meeting general operating environments. I think there is very little disp/hp/tq to be gained without some consideration for effective vs. efficient to other internal motor parts. I think aftermarket ECM, intakes, exhaust are trying to capitalize on small band width of displacement HD chose not to use in their stock set-up, for what ever reasons. So, bigger airboxes, big filters, big slip-ons do not always correlate to bigger power. CFM numbers matter and broad spectrum sensors on tuner/ECM's matter.
 
I like the depth of this discussion. Even though I've already made my decisions regarding Stage1 upgrades there is definitely some interesting facts and studies here-Thanks everyone!
 
I could use some assistance.... 2015 Street Glide Special, 2,700 miles, 4" Rinehart Slip-ons, stock header, stock air cleaner, and I live in California. I have read for a couple of hours trying to solve my dilemma. I want to install a new air cleaner, and wish to keep the OEM air filter cover. I have boiled it down between the HD High Performance Kit, PN 29400129/$149, or the Arlen Ness Big Sucker, PN 18-442/$159. I spoke with my HD mechanic and he stated that a Stage 1 download would be necessary. Arlen Ness said to run for a few hundred miles and check spark plugs. After reading here, it would seem like at least an air/fuel adjustment will be necessary. Here is where I need some clarification:

* HD charges $229 for the Stage 1 download (wow!), effectively making it nearly $400 to change out the air filter (wow again). I believe this is done by plugging into the ECM, down loading the map to change the air/fuel mixture, collecting my $229 and that's it. I do ride with a couple of folks who have had that done and they say that there is quite a noticeable difference.

*Question? Could the same be accomplished by buying the HD Street Performance Tuner ($229), or is that used for a different purpose? I mean, why not just buy the tuner and do it myself? Although changing an ECM code on my $30k machine sort of scares the living hell out me...

* Could what I am trying to do be accomplished with the Fuel Moto Micro EFI? I have also been reading positive results using the Nightrider AF-XIED Fuel Manager. I seem to have read that with the Fuel Moto Micro you have to disconnect the O2 sensors. Not sure with this would do to the ECM readings. Though I have read much here, seems to be from folks who have changed out the header as well. I have not done so....yet!

I also want to have a 'set it and forget it' component as I don't want to have to be making micro- adjustments to get stuff right. Just want it done once and get back to riding. I could use some help with this please.

On another note, I bought a set of SE 10mm Phat plug wires, installed them, rode about 50 miles, took them off and returned them. I noticed that the bike idled rougher and there was a noticeable delay in the throttle response at idle- like the bike was 'missing' or something. I put the OEM back on, and bike is back to normal operation. Weird huh?
 
Klmack said:
I could use some assistance.... 2015 Street Glide Special, 2,700 miles, 4" Rinehart Slip-ons, stock header, stock air cleaner, and I live in California. I have read for a couple of hours trying to solve my dilemma. I want to install a new air cleaner, and wish to keep the OEM air filter cover. I have boiled it down between the HD High Performance Kit, PN 29400129/$149, or the Arlen Ness Big Sucker, PN 18-442/$159. I spoke with my HD mechanic and he stated that a Stage 1 download would be necessary. Arlen Ness said to run for a few hundred miles and check spark plugs. After reading here, it would seem like at least an air/fuel adjustment will be necessary. Here is where I need some clarification:

* HD charges $229 for the Stage 1 download (wow!), effectively making it nearly $400 to change out the air filter (wow again). I believe this is done by plugging into the ECM, down loading the map to change the air/fuel mixture, collecting my $229 and that's it. I do ride with a couple of folks who have had that done and they say that there is quite a noticeable difference.

*Question? Could the same be accomplished by buying the HD Street Performance Tuner ($229), or is that used for a different purpose? I mean, why not just buy the tuner and do it myself? Although changing an ECM code on my $30k machine sort of scares the living hell out me...

* Could what I am trying to do be accomplished with the Fuel Moto Micro EFI? I have also been reading positive results using the Nightrider AF-XIED Fuel Manager. I seem to have read that with the Fuel Moto Micro you have to disconnect the O2 sensors. Not sure with this would do to the ECM readings. Though I have read much here, seems to be from folks who have changed out the header as well. I have not done so....yet!

I also want to have a 'set it and forget it' component as I don't want to have to be making micro- adjustments to get stuff right. Just want it done once and get back to riding. I could use some help with this please.

On another note, I bought a set of SE 10mm Phat plug wires, installed them, rode about 50 miles, took them off and returned them. I noticed that the bike idled rougher and there was a noticeable delay in the throttle response at idle- like the bike was 'missing' or something. I put the OEM back on, and bike is back to normal operation. Weird huh?
Click to expand...
In my opinion the best bang for the buck would be to do the SE or the V&H air cleaner and instead of the one time download I would simply add the FP3 (~$300 on-line) this with your current slip-ons will wake up the bike and the FP3 install is simply a matter of taking off the side panel and plugging the unit in and a 5 minute download via Bluetooth connection to your smartphone. This set-up will not only give you a dramatic increase in responsiveness but more importantly will give you a tool which is scale-able if you ever decide to do anything else to your engine (stage 2-4 and now supports cam changes).....you'll be happy you did in the long run IMO.
 
Keep in mind, the "dramatic increase in responsiveness" from the FP3 is due to changes in the throttle progressivity table. The throttle opens more for the same turn of the wrist.
 
I like my Stage 1 mainly for two reasons. 1] The engine temps went down and 2] The way my bike sounds. I didn't really notice an increase in power to be honest. I am happy so far. I guess my next step would be cams. From past experience, cams made a noticeable difference in response and power. Not to mention the engine sounded "angrier"
 
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