OK, not sure if anyone is interested, but I thought I would do a quick follow up regarding my thoughts of my new accessory.
First off, the primary reason I did this "upgrade" was to streamline the look on the left side of the motor. I am very happy with that and have even received several compliments already. To be very honest, I have not been able to tell any difference in terms of performance.
The installation:
1. I had to remove the gas tank. This was the first time I did that. It was not bad at all. It is very straight forward. The two tubes that snake through the frame came right out with only a minor tug.
2. The directions are missing one critical piece of information. When removing the ignition coil, the battery hold down bracket also has to be removed and cannot be put back in after the coil is removed. This is because the two screws that hold the ignition coil in place go through the battery hold down bracket first. This is not a big deal but it did give me a pause.
3. When routing the cables from the coils, i pushed them through the frame between the cylinder heads and then up to the backbone. I zip tied them flat to the side so as to fit in the channel under (and on the side) of the tank. The wire routing was the easiest part of the whole job.
The future:
1. I do not look forward to ever having to replace the spark plugs. I am kind of glad I did it now when I put these coils on. (I switched to Screaming Eagle plugs.) In order to swap out the plugs in the future, the coils will have to be removed. I fear that will require removing the tank again. There are two socket head cap screws that hold down the cast aluminum covers to the cast aluminum head stud mounts. Getting to them without removing the tank will be tedious at best. I really do believe that removing the tank will just be quicker than micro/mini turns of a right angled 5/32" hex key wrench.
Final thoughts:
Removing the fuel vapor vent tube was able to be done without cutting the zip tie that held it to the frame. I was also able to put it back in the same zip tie when reinstalling it. It is a pain in the ass rerouting because of the tight placement against the rear of the primary but I got it done. Ok, I made my son help son because he is young and has small hands.
I hope that helps.
P.S. If you look real close at the picture attached, you can see where the fuel vapor vent tube is not quite routed correctly. I will go take a picture later today and add it so you can see it now.
First off, the primary reason I did this "upgrade" was to streamline the look on the left side of the motor. I am very happy with that and have even received several compliments already. To be very honest, I have not been able to tell any difference in terms of performance.
The installation:
1. I had to remove the gas tank. This was the first time I did that. It was not bad at all. It is very straight forward. The two tubes that snake through the frame came right out with only a minor tug.
2. The directions are missing one critical piece of information. When removing the ignition coil, the battery hold down bracket also has to be removed and cannot be put back in after the coil is removed. This is because the two screws that hold the ignition coil in place go through the battery hold down bracket first. This is not a big deal but it did give me a pause.
3. When routing the cables from the coils, i pushed them through the frame between the cylinder heads and then up to the backbone. I zip tied them flat to the side so as to fit in the channel under (and on the side) of the tank. The wire routing was the easiest part of the whole job.
The future:
1. I do not look forward to ever having to replace the spark plugs. I am kind of glad I did it now when I put these coils on. (I switched to Screaming Eagle plugs.) In order to swap out the plugs in the future, the coils will have to be removed. I fear that will require removing the tank again. There are two socket head cap screws that hold down the cast aluminum covers to the cast aluminum head stud mounts. Getting to them without removing the tank will be tedious at best. I really do believe that removing the tank will just be quicker than micro/mini turns of a right angled 5/32" hex key wrench.
Final thoughts:
Removing the fuel vapor vent tube was able to be done without cutting the zip tie that held it to the frame. I was also able to put it back in the same zip tie when reinstalling it. It is a pain in the ass rerouting because of the tight placement against the rear of the primary but I got it done. Ok, I made my son help son because he is young and has small hands.
I hope that helps.
P.S. If you look real close at the picture attached, you can see where the fuel vapor vent tube is not quite routed correctly. I will go take a picture later today and add it so you can see it now.
