Added Dresser Duals, power loss on low end? Or just me....

[trublupsu94]

This is going to sound strange. But let me explain. I have a 2014 SGS. Two years ago I got the HD SE Stage 1 air filter mod, V&H Monster Round Slip ons, and FP3. I put in the map for that and bike ran pretty good. A few weeks ago I finished up my system by adding in the Dresser Duals. Then I did the proper flash in the FP3 for this setup.

The heat reduction has been simply fantastic. No comparison. The only thing I can’t put my finger on exactly is the bike does feel like it is less responsive in low RPM’s when getting on the throttle. The bike feels like its ‘flat’ is the only way I can describe during hard acceleration. The problem is the speedometer doesn’t exactly show that. It accelearates just as quickly as before. I have tried to see if it would come out of the flat feeling by staying on the throttle from 2K RPM up to 5KRPM. Not much change. When in 5th or 6th gear, it just has the sluggish feeling like its struggling. But again, the speedo says otherwise.

Should I notice any issues with this setup vs what I had before? Is changing the head pipe to dresser duals causing an issue I haven’t compensated for? Or is the bike just different and I should get used to it?

One other thing, I do notice a little bit of pop every now and then when I let completely off the throttle from a hard acceleration. It’s not a backfire, just a little bit of throaty popping for a second. I live in TX and it has been very hot here. I wonder if it is just because of the heat. It’s upwards of 95-100F when I ride it and it does this occasionally.

So am I hearing and feeling things or is this symptomatic of a tuning issue?

Thanks....

 

[cowkicker84]

you need to run the auto tune for a couple tanks then apply the learned map, also there is a decel pop setting you can change

 

[TomA]

Yes you need to do an auto tune I would run at least 3 tanks of fuel. Pay attention to the learned cells filled before you flash the changes, so it might take up to 8 tanks of fuel to get the results your after.

 

[trublupsu94]

I followed the advice here and did an auto tune. I rode the bike with my standard map for high flow air filter, dresser duals, and monster rounds. I used that as the base map for the auto tune. I rode the bike about 30 miles and looked at the map. It had 73 blocks learned. I was surprised how much green there was. I applied the map and kept in auto tune. Rode another 40 miles and looked again. This time I drove more aggressive and rolled the throttle on slowly from 2nd gear through 5th. The map was very green again when I checked, especially on the higher RPM and throttle position. Applied the map again. Then finished driving home in auto tune mode still. The difference from the 70 miles was unbelievable. Throttle response was better, bike felt stronger, and seemed to ride better. Idle is still a little rough. I used a little more than a 1/4 tank of gas. My question is, when am I done? When do I finish the auto tune out? I’m not sure how much better it can get. Has anyone had this same scienero?

 

[TomA]

If your happy with the tune now just leave it alone. Run it for a while and see how you like it and you can tune some more to get it better.

 

[trublupsu94]

If your happy with the tune now just leave it alone. Run it for a while and see how you like it and you can tune some more to get it better.

I can do that? I can auto tune a auto tune? Did not know that. Thanks. I might just do that. I’ll run the next auto tune session on the remaining tank of gas I have. As soon as I fill up I will finish that map and flash it. If needed, I will do more later.

Question for the experts...it’s hot where I live right now. My auto tune has been done with temps in the 95-100F range. Will the tune work as good at lower temps like the 40-50’s?

Thanks.

 

[azglocker]

Your tune should be fine when temps cool. The efi uses data from the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) to vary fuel.

And yes you can auto tune an auto tuned auto tune. There's a very long detailed thread about the fp3, it contains more info that you ever wanted. Dynojet says when cells change by 3% or less you're done auto tuning. That's harder to tell on the fp3 as you can't view deltas between configs but you could take a screenshot or two and compare the results.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[trublupsu94]

Quick update for those who might be doing an auto tune. I learned a few things. I have 155 miles on auto tunes and I am completely done. Bike runs like a top. I found some ways, simple ones, to map quickly. It does involve some high RPM’s but not necessarily super high speed. I was able to get 87 cells learned in 45 mins. I started by riding out to a rural road. Not much traffic. I then continuously did the following....Drive in first gear starting slow and just barely edge the throttle. I let the RPM’s go up slowly and tried to keep the throttle steady. Once the RPM’s maxed for that throttle position I gave it a little more gas. I was in first gear for about a mile by the time I got to 5K RPM. Then I did the same for 2, 3, 4, and part of the way in 5th. Because I accelerated slowly, it mapped very quickly. Before I finished out that map I did make a few very fast acceleration runs from dead stop on a rural road to full on 5th gear and 80 mph. But that was only 2 or 3 runs. And they were quick. Anyway, this seemed to work well for me vs trying to do it while I road around on my daily ride. By going this route the computer had a fair amount of time in each cell based on RPM and TPS. Bike runs very well once I ended the auto tune and flashed the bike.

I will also comment that my bike idled like complete crap while it was cold this morning. If I gave it the slightest throttle while getting ready to leave the house the big shuttered and wanted to stall. But once it warmed up things got better. Now that the map is saved, big runs like a top. Thanks to all here for your help.