Bolts shaking loose

[Mukluk]

Lovin my '14 SGS, however it rides pretty hard/bumpy due to the stiffness of the shocks. A troublesome side effect of the rough ride is that the bolts shake loose here and there. On 4 different rides, a bolt came loose. Things like the shifter bolt (happened 3 times until I lock tighted it) and even things like the bolt that holds the saddle bag handle causing the handle to break loose and fly off. Couldn't open the saddlebag without the handle!

Anyhow, has anybody else experienced this situation and any thoughts/suggestions? The HD dealer told me they torqued all critical bolts at the 5k service but it seems they missed a few. Frankly I'm nervous about taking a long trip if I'll be stranded somewhere after losing a critical screw/bolt in the middle of Timbuktu.

Thank you for your comments.

 

[paul65k]

I'm not sure how many Harleys you have owned but my opinion is that the new bikes are the smoothest bikes ever made by Harley. Now with that being said lock-tite is a MUST when installing parts on a Harley.....there's a reason that some people call them Milwaukee Vibrators

 

[RoadWarrior]

The motors are pretty smooth, but suspension wise, the '15 SGS is the roughest riding Harley I've had between a Fatboy, Wide Glide and Road King. New air shocks should rectify that.

 

[CrBear]

They all should have this on the tank..

 

[BluesBelly]

There is a difference between checking torque vales and checking for tightness.

Torque should be measured while the bolt or nut is rotating not whie it is stationary. The reason for this is "static friction", or the amount of force required to get a fastener rotating by overcoming friction. Checking torque on a fasterner without it turning says nothing of the actual tightness of that bolt. In fact static friction may be greater than the torque required, typically because of rough surfaces, binding, galling, or corrosion. Static friction isn't included in torque requirements for a fastener so if the force required to overcome static friction is greater than the required torque on a fastener you run a good chance to under torque because of static friction. You also don't want to further torque an already correctly tightened bolt.

If you are concerned about the torque on a certain fastener, the recommended practice is to loosen it, and then torque it using a constant steady pull until you reach the required torque. If loctite is used, remove and clean the fastener and reapply Loctite.

 

[Mukluk]

Thanks and agreed! Does anyone have a recommendation for a brand / model of air shock I could consider to replace the stock?


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[BluesBelly]

Thanks and agreed! Does anyone have a recommendation for a brand / model of air shock I could consider to replace the stock?


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I went the cheap route and am very plaeased with the ride.
To replace my SG 12" air shocks I scored a brand new pair of 12 3/4" stock HD air shocks off a 2015 Bagger from ebay for $100. I changed the shock oil from stock 5 wt to 12 oz of Amsoil 7.5 wt. and run 36 lbs of air for two up riding and 32 lbs for single. There is a day and night diffence in the ride and although the bike sits a touch higher you never notice it. There are several threads posted on this subject. in one of those posts I describe how to change the shock oil.

The other option is to spend lots of $$$$ on aftermarket shocks and there are several good options there also.
Check the archives as there are many posts and opinions concerning this subject.

Read this:

http://streetglide.com/showthread.php?62-Replacement-Shocks&highlight=changing+shocks

 

[Mukluk]

I've done some research and am going to switch out my stock rear shocks with some Progressive 944's. They are 13" full coil spring, but they have a "helper spring" that keeps it sitting at 12" so the bike height stays the same. From what I hear it gives a more "plush" ride than the stiff stock shocks which are beating me up (I'm only 160lbs, so the HD shocks don't absorb any bumps at all).

I hope it's true. I will report back.

Thanks everyone for your helpful comments!

 

[CrBear]

I have the 944's. Better than stock but not perfect

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[Mukluk]

Thanks CrBear. Are they worth the expenditure? The stock shocks are killing my spine so I am really hoping that the Progressives will do the trick. Thanks!


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[Rhsra]

I too am 170# and have not found the sweet spot on the rear shocks for me alone. Don't think there is one on the stock hydraulic for just me solo. Will be taking the wife out soon so I'll see what happens there.. I'm looking into shock alternatives also


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[CrBear]

Thanks CrBear. Are they worth the expenditure? The stock shocks are killing my spine so I am really hoping that the Progressives will do the trick. Thanks!


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I would look for possible used ones. Have read others there weren't as happy with them. There are several options out there, but I don't have experience with them. But yes, they are better than stock.

 

[Mukluk]

Update: Just installed the 944's. Am VERY happy. Head and shoulders over stock. I don't understand why Harley doesn't use a shock like this on the bike in the first place? I personally found the stock shocks to be unrideable. Very glad I found a solution (albeit an expensive one).

Thanks everyone for your comments.


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[Doc1964]

Mukluk I am new rider & new on here ,I start something new & I become obsessed with it ,I was having my 2015 SGS warranty work done ,and since they really don't want to explain what it is or what they are doing ,I bought the 2015 service manual ,in there it show torque values and which locktite ,my point is this if they did everything that the manual calls for and what we pay them for (servicing ) they would never get us in ,I know in my short time that they do not check everything out my new bike had to have new fork stem clamps & triple tree clamps and new inner fairing & the only way I learn is to go through manual since I don't have anyone to show me


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