Gear driven pros and cons...

Fatbob Frank

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May 11, 2017
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So I'm planning on getting an S&S cam installed in the spring and I see that for a little more money you can get it in a gear driven kit instead of chain.
I've never had a gear driven cam so I'm just wondering if it is worth the extra $$ or not.
Any issues going to gear driven that I should be aware of, or should I stick with the chain drive??
Thoughts?...
 
I had an 2004 Dyna Super Glide that I had changed to a S&S gear cam because of issues with the chain tensioners. I didn't mind the little extra noise caused by the gears. Engine RPMs at idle where steady and didn't fluctuate. My understanding is that there are still some issues with the chain tensioners. I'm not sure about the M8 series. I have a 2015 SGS and if I need or want to change cams I'm sure I wouldn't hesitate to change over to gear driven cams. I thought the extra price worth it.


15 SGS Amber Whiskey; ThunderMax tuner; Ceramic True Duel headers; 4.5 inch RC Exhaust slip ons ;LED turn signals/ run lights; passenger backrest; one inch passenger and rider floorboard extensions;stage one air cleaner. 4 point docking system; air wing.




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Mine at 5k miles. Yeah miles are low but there is barely a mark that a chain was even there.

I think tensioner issues are few and far between and not as much of an issue as lead to believe. Its quiet and reliable. With that said, I see no gains of a gear drive besides an added expense.
Those that claim added horsepower is just hogwash.
 
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Personally I like the gear whine.
I installed them in my 2001 FXDX and never looked back.

One of the install issues may be too much crankshaft run out for gear drive cams. Even if you want them, without a crank shaft rebuild, you can't install them.

Ken
 
Although 2007+ models that use the “new” hydraulic tensioners are better, they are far from fool proof and can still fail (read engine re-build). Take a look around the net and you’ll read several stories with everyday people who don’t ride their bikes hard, and now need new engines. I looked at upgrading my bike to gear driven cams, however had too much runout on my crank. Most manufacturers, including S&S which is what I used, don’t allow more than 0.003” runout on the crank. Mine was at 0.005”. Big disappointment, but fixing it was cost prohibitive. I ended up going with the S&S Cam Chest Kit which includes an upgraded cam plate, oil pump, cams, all the bearings, gaskets, locktite, pushrods, lifters, and new tensioners made of a more durable material and allow them to be lubricated better, and everything else that you need. I highly recommend it. Check out the S&S YouTube page and you’ll see why their upgraded parts are vastly superior to the H-D ones. If I remember right, the H-D cranks can come from the factory with up to either 0.008 or 0.012” crank runout. This means even a brand new bike may not be able to switch to gear driven cams. Pretty crappy design by H-D. Press fit cranks are crap and welded ones aren’t any better. S&S also has a series of YouTube videos to prove it. If someone tells you that you don’t need to worry about it or says I’m blowing smoke, feel free to research it yourself. I did a ton last summer and fall before I did my upgrade last winter. The new M8 models still use press fit cranks with tensioners so nothing has changed. Good luck!


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I'm running an S&S crank set custom built and balanced by DarkHorse crankworks. I ran an S&S gear drive for the last 10,500 miles. Gear drive works fine, you can hear a little gear whine. There is really no advantage to gear drive at all compared to the hydraulic tensioned H-D set-up. I see very few custom cam makers offering gear drive cams anymore.

Keep in mind there are millions of bikes running chain drive and a handful running gear drive. No wonder you hear about more chain drive problems.
 


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