Inline fuse, do i need it?

farmboy

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Dec 13, 2014
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OK so I'm doing heated grips that's been a bit of a pain. The HD set I bought has an inline fuse on the red power lead. Because of that I can't get the harness through the bars. Would it hurt anything to cut it out, then run the wires and splice it back in. Also the harness is going to connect to the accessory wiring harness that I bought with it and that plugs into a connector that's got to be fuse protected so do I even need it. Or is it there because the grips will draw more power than say other electrical components? Or is it there because it could be wired direct to B+ ? What do you Think?
 
If there are potentially going be other accessories using the same circuit I would keep the inline fuse for the grips. Cutting and re-splicing with a good insulated connector should be fine. What is the amp rating of the grips vs. the amp of your accessory fuse?
 
If there are potentially going be other accessories using the same circuit I would keep the inline fuse for the grips. Cutting and re-splicing with a good insulated connector should be fine. What is the amp rating of the grips vs. the amp of your accessory fuse?

according to the directions the grips can draw 2.8 amp. The in line fuse has a 5 amp and the directions say a 4 amp is OK.
the accessories harness says the power drawn from the connector is a 15 amp vehicle fuse. Not sure what else I would add but sure there's something coming down the road. Probably cut and splice back in.. my only concern was I thought I read in another post some where about can bus wiring not being a good candidate for splicing.
 
I think it would be fine. There is already a "break" in the wire for the fuse. Like I said, use a good quality insulated crimp splice. We use crimp splices on 600V wiring in industrial apps with no loss of voltage or amperage. If you do eliminate the in-line fuse make sure you replace the accessory fuse with a 4 or 5 amp one.
 
Pull the main fuse before doing any of this. I would solder the connection and double shrink tube it. Connections are vulnerable to corrosion and vibration.
 
Are you talking about the inline fuse near the rear of the harness where it plugs into the adapter under the seat?
 
Unless you are using CVO grips the wires you are talking about run along the outside of the handlebar. The only wires that go inside the bars on non CVO bikes are the jumper wires that connect the left grip to the right grip. The directions that come with the grips pretty much suck. I can take a pic of mine if it will help you out.
 
Unless you are using CVO grips the wires you are talking about run along the outside of the handlebar. The only wires that go inside the bars on non CVO bikes are the jumper wires that connect the left grip to the right grip. The directions that come with the grips pretty much suck. I can take a pic of mine if it will help you out.

yeah I see the directions call for that power harness to run on the outside of the bars I just thought on the inside would be a little neater installation. I think Paul65k ran his through the controls. I just got my switchbacks back together And the housings on them. I had a notch that plastic flange on the grips and cut a little channel but the wire goes in and then comes out where the switch pack wire is and doesn't seem to be any binding. I also not just a little bit of the switch pack Housing Works it's over the wire. everything seems to fit back together pretty decent I think I'll cut that fuse out run the wires through the bars and then splice that back in.
I want to thank everybody who responded for their input this is a great forum!
 


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