107 vs 110 vs 117 vs 124

Sprchf4583

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Apr 18, 2014
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I have a 2014 street glide. So far i have v@h pro pipe, screamin' eagle cone filter, and andrews 57h cams. putting out 94 horse and 114 tq. I'm happy with the performance so far, but like most would like a lil more. I've been looking at doing some jug upgrades and am having trouble trying to pick the best bang for my buck, plus reliability. So I've been thinking of the ss107, 117, or 124 kits. Maybe the harley 110. Id like to keep as many stock parts as possible with the stock heads getting a valve job and a clutch upgrade of course

any input would be appreciated, also if it would make more sense to just do a head job and some higher comp pistons. My only end goal is most bang for my buck.
 
If you want performance and reliability, the S&S 124 is in my opinion, is the best bet. Upgrading the stock engine will leave you with a press fit crank, no Timken bearing on the crank, cam chain tensioners, an inferior oil pump and more. The S&S cures all of these problems and probably a few more I've forgotten. S&S knows performance and makes quality products. H-D is like most manufacturers and uses the planned obsolescence system. I did also look at the S&S 111" but it was so close in price to the 124" it wasn't worth it. Good luck.


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everybody sez use the S&S complete engines but It would seem like having a different engine with different numbers would cause problems at some point if you were dealing with dick cops. So what would you do if you were going to keep the HD cases? Darkhorse the crank, put the lefty bearing in, then get jugs and replace the lifters?
 
Keep the stock engine and bolt on a Aerocharger turbo kit. every thing bolts right up in just a few hours and can be removed just as easy. you get more hp/tq than the ss124. You also can upgrade your hp/tq in seconds just by swapping out springs. I have 5000 miles with ss585 cams and 11lbs boost everything else is stock. I road it to Daytona this year and got 200mi out of a tank . The turbo kit is by far the cheapest most reliable way to go . I got a power commander pti tuner, heavy clutch spring, boost gauge, and the short exhaust pipe for less than just the 124.
 
I like that set up EvilTwin. I bet it sounds awesome.

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So what would you do if you were going to keep the HD cases? Darkhorse the crank, put the lefty bearing in, then get jugs and replace the lifters?

If it were me, I would definitely get an S&S crank (look at their crank videos o YouTube to see why), put in the Timken bearing, if possible install gear driven cams to get rid of any tensioner issues, replace the oil pump and cam plate with an S&S one (see YouTube for reasons why). There's always more that can be done but that would increase performance and reliability 2000%.
 
I have looked at this quite a bit.

120 cubic inch motors have a 7.575" connecting rod length and a 4.625" stroke; Rod/Stroke= 1.637
Stock in a 103 is a 7.667 connecting rod length and a 4.375 stroke; Rod/Stroke=1.752

A value of 1.75 is considered ideal by many respected engine builders. The short ratio (1.637) makes the engine push the pistons hard against the cylinder walls causing the wear when combined with the higher piston velocities of the longer stroke.

Stay with the stock 4.375 stroke crank set or upgrade to the Darkhorse crank built from S&S flywheels. Use the SE lefty main bearing P/N 24004-03B in both case halves. I would not use a Timken tapered roller bearing but many do as older H-D bearings were marginal.

Now you need the largest bore that fits the engine cases with good rigid cylinder wall (spigot) thickness. That would be SE P/N 16550-04C 4.06 bore cylinders for a 113" engine. The engine will be the largest possible bore and stroke for long life in the Harley engine cases IMHO. The cylinder spigots are .090" thick and fit the engine cases when bored to a diameter of 4.262" which is as big as you can go.

Over boring the cylinders to 4.125" would make a 117" motor but the reduced cylinder liner spigot thickness is only 30% as rigid as the 113".

SE pistons 22571-07B (4.060 diameter) are 10.5:1 compression and are matched with MVA heads P/N 16925-11.

GMR performance builds lots of 113" engines that run great.

graph.jpg
 
I have looked at this quite a bit.

120 cubic inch motors have a 7.575" connecting rod length and a 4.625" stroke; Rod/Stroke= 1.637
Stock in a 103 is a 7.667 connecting rod length and a 4.375 stroke; Rod/Stroke=1.752

A value of 1.75 is considered ideal by many respected engine builders. The short ratio (1.637) makes the engine push the pistons hard against the cylinder walls causing the wear when combined with the higher piston velocities of the longer stroke.

Stay with the stock 4.375 stroke crank set or upgrade to the Darkhorse crank built from S&S flywheels. Use the SE lefty main bearing P/N 24004-03B in both case halves. I would not use a Timken tapered roller bearing but many do as older H-D bearings were marginal.

Now you need the largest bore that fits the engine cases with good rigid cylinder wall (spigot) thickness. That would be SE P/N 16550-04C 4.06 bore cylinders for a 113" engine. The engine will be the largest possible bore and stroke for long life in the Harley engine cases IMHO. The cylinder spigots are .090" thick and fit the engine cases when bored to a diameter of 4.262" which is as big as you can go.

Over boring the cylinders to 4.125" would make a 117" motor but the reduced cylinder liner spigot thickness is only 30% as rigid as the 113".

SE pistons 22571-07B (4.060 diameter) are 10.5:1 compression and are matched with MVA heads P/N 16925-11.

GMR performance builds lots of 113" engines that run great.

View attachment 11254

so if you got a 120R and fixed its issues you'd be good or if you stuck with a 103 case, did the cranks and went with the SE 4.06 barrels you'd end up with the 113 and likely more reliability. Whose rockers and lifters would u use?

On the turbo, I can't get past the configuration of the Aerocharger, maybe it's a great system but it looks like hell how components are positioned.


I like the way the Trask system is laid out much better.

Tim
 
Whose rockers and lifters would u use?
Tim

I have a set of S&S premium lifters and I use the stock rockers. The stock rockers are stiffer than roller rockers and there are no little roller bearings to fail. Limit your cam lift to around .580 at the valves. If you get the Harley MVA heads, I hear good recommendations for AV&V beehive valve springs in them to lower spring forces a bit.
 


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