120SE Compression
- Thread starter Tarkus
- Start date
I got 182psi with altitude adjustment using the Calculator. Thank you.
When I tested my Eng. I got 160psi front and 165psi rear ??
Let me explain I'm trying to find out why this bike is vibrating so much it keeps getting progressively worse, it is to the point where the whole fearing shakes so bad you can't see the gages this was first noticed during decel low RPM now it does it on acceleration also, but seems to smooth out some at 60 70mph in 6th mirrors stay still. I took the right side apart the runout is .001 I'm waiting for a T-70 to inspect the left side. I have been watching you and Spazz hoping for some clues. Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated
Also before I took it apart I took it to HD for warranty they agreed something was wrong!
I got this 2015 SGS used 840mi was told it still had a year left on the warranty. The 1st times I took in in for noise and vibration was told it was normal for this model the 2nd time the vibration keep getting worse told them I heard some noise in the primary they said they pulled off the primary to inspect and found nothing wrong and that they checked and said they realigned the motor with respect to the mounts gave it back NO CHANGE I took it back they said they took off the exhaust and realigned it replaced front motor mount and swing arm rubber. NO CHANGE. all the time I was taking it in for work they were stalling for time they had the bike off and on for about 4.5 months. I was finally told the truth, the first time I took it in they found out the warranty on the 120SE had run out (1yr) When i got the bike I was lead to believed it was all under warranty except the normal ware items well they ran the warranty out. They were trying everything to fix the problem without touching the motor. And on top of that the work they did do with the mounts and exhaust HD kicked the warranty back because of the HD installed D&D complete exhaust.
NOT HAPPY WITH HD
I have to get pushrods I cut the HD ones, also heard that the SE lifters were not to be trusted do you have an opinion on these parts a recommendation? I was also thinking about roller rockers and rocker lockers what do you think?
Was the throttle open when you did the compression check?
I use Fuel Moto adjustable pushrods made by Smith Brothers and S&S premium lifters.
No need for roller rockers with the SE 259E cam.
I installed Rockouts instead of Rocker Lockers.
The compensator could be a problem. Check spring pre-load as shown here on page 4: http://www.compensaver.com/install-instructions.html
I had to put a shim washer in mine.
Hello HULKSS Thanks for the help.
Yes I did the compression test with the throttle open. I was thinking since I used the
SE Supper Tuner to disable the ACR system, maybe the cylinders were washed out from the injectors still working, I will retest with the crank sensor unplugged after I finish testing the left side crank runout. I just spaced out on that test. Waiting for T-70.
As for parts I went with your suggestion and got SS lifters without the limit kit
I went and got SS quickie pushrods (a good deal with lifters)
I also went with the Rockouts.
Did you use the Compensaver? I two bolted my pri. Cover to keep out dirt until I work on it again, does it have a factory scoop cast into it? If so I wonder if the thrust washer can be had by its self, and would it be beneficial.
Just out of curiosity why do you think roller-rockers aren’t needed with SE259 cams?
Once again thanks for your advice.
Hello HULKSS Thanks for the help.
Yes I did the compression test with the throttle open. I was thinking since I used the
SE Supper Tuner to disable the ACR system, maybe the cylinders were washed out from the injectors still working, I will retest with the crank sensor unplugged after I finish testing the left side crank runout. I just spaced out on that test. Waiting for T-70.
As for parts I went with your suggestion and got SS lifters without the limit kit
I went and got SS quickie pushrods (a good deal with lifters)
I also went with the Rockouts.
Did you use the Compensaver? I two bolted my pri. Cover to keep out dirt until I work on it again, does it have a factory scoop cast into it? If so I wonder if the thrust washer can be had by its self, and would it be beneficial.
Just out of curiosity why do you think roller-rockers aren’t needed with SE259 cams?
Once again thanks for your advice.
To compression test:
Turn on the bike and let the computer boot with your key fob nearby.
Pull the main 50 amp fuse under the left side cover.
Turn the main ignition switch off.
Now you will have no spark, no fuel injection, and no compression releases.
Take out both park plugs and connect your compression gauge to one cylinder.
Remove your airfilter and block the throttle plate partway open with something that won't get sucked into the engine.
Attach a remote starter switch (available at any auto store) from the main lug on top of the starter to the solenoid connection on the front side. You may need a short piece of wire with a female spade lug on it to connect safely and not short to the starter case.
Press the remote starter button and crank a few engine cycles untill pressure stabilizes on the gauge.
The compensaver is in addition to the cast in factory scoop on your bike. I just installed mine but have not ridden with it. I needed a preload shim in the spring pack.
Roller rockers are only needed with cams over .600 valve lift IMHO. They reduce valve train stiffness and add another failure point (those tiny tip rollers).
Many engine builders recommend lower stiffness beehive valve springs from AV&V that will work fine with the 259E cam and reduce the high spring forces in the valve train.
Turn on the bike and let the computer boot with your key fob nearby.
Pull the main 50 amp fuse under the left side cover.
Turn the main ignition switch off.
Now you will have no spark, no fuel injection, and no compression releases.
Take out both park plugs and connect your compression gauge to one cylinder.
Remove your airfilter and block the throttle plate partway open with something that won't get sucked into the engine.
Attach a remote starter switch (available at any auto store) from the main lug on top of the starter to the solenoid connection on the front side. You may need a short piece of wire with a female spade lug on it to connect safely and not short to the starter case.
Press the remote starter button and crank a few engine cycles untill pressure stabilizes on the gauge.
The compensaver is in addition to the cast in factory scoop on your bike. I just installed mine but have not ridden with it. I needed a preload shim in the spring pack.
Roller rockers are only needed with cams over .600 valve lift IMHO. They reduce valve train stiffness and add another failure point (those tiny tip rollers).
Many engine builders recommend lower stiffness beehive valve springs from AV&V that will work fine with the 259E cam and reduce the high spring forces in the valve train.
Just A quick recap all of these POST started with this problem== 2015 SGS, 120SE it started vibrating on acceleration and decel, It got to the point it was shaking the fearing. Long story short I checked the runout on the right side of the crank it was .001 on the left side it was .007 I checked it on the compensator NUT MACHINED surface I took the NUT off and put it in another position and re checked it this time it was .003 Not sure what to make of this someone said check the clutch basket for a wobble maybe main shaft or bearing.
