DIY audio upgrade on Street Glide Special 2016

jamesc

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Jul 19, 2016
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Hi,

So I am going to attempt an DIY audio upgrade on my stock 2016 SGS. I am only upgrading the front fairing speakers and amp. My main purpose is to be able to have clear music while driving at normal highway speeds and I don't want to bust the bank to do it. It does not need to be the loudest or showiest system, I just need to be able to enjoy the music and beats. I also want to avoid flashing my system.

I have read a lot of the audio forum threads here and this is what I am putting in.

Focal 165AC
I have listened to these speakers at a local car audio shop and they sounded quite nice. They also had the Focal EC165Ks and they sounded even better but they were over twice the cost of the ACs and I could not justify it. I also looked at the Kappas 62.11i, Biketronics Titans IIs, and other mentioned on the threads but the Focals where available locally and had favorable reviews.

Cerwin Vega B52
There are many positive reviews on the forums on this amp and they should power the 4ohm Focals quite nicely. I found them on newegg.com for a pretty good price. Expecting it next week.

Biketronics BT355 HD Radio Line Leveler
This is so I dont have to Flash my HU. Never heard one in use but just going by what the forums say it is quite good. I purchased it with the "Front Speaker Connector". Should have it next week.

These three items are the only things I have ordered. Is there anything else I will need? Does the amp need a power wire harness? Speaker wire?
I should have some good spare RCA cables lying around to go between the line leveler and amp.

I will post my install progress once the parts arrive.

The cost of everything was less then 500 USD (including tax and shipping). As long as it performs the same or better than the Boom Stage II then I will be happy.
 
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Hi,

I should have some good spare RCA cables lying around to go between the line leveler and amp.

That CV amp does NOT have RCA's.... low level line inputs only. Unless the amp comes with a plug that goes in the left side that is RCA's on the other end... not sure though.

b52-2.jpg


You will need some 8g power and ground to run to your battery and a good 30-50 amp inline, waterproof fuse holder within 12" of battery connection, not under the fairing. You will need some 14g speaker wire as well.

that amp is 500watt rated.... 200 x 2 for 4ohms... so dial it down so you won't blow your 165AC's that are only rated for 60 watts RMS....peak is not that important as that is in relation to spikes and not normal listening.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
I am an electrical engineer and build my own home audio speakers and amps. I never did motorcycle or car audio before.


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I went with the Rockford Fosgate amp because it has high level inputs so I didn't need a line leveler, bought the molex connectors and made my own plug & play harness.
 
I went ahead and purchased the arcaudio harness. From what I researched it will work with the CV amp and includes the remote line connections. It is only 12g for the power line but is rated for 25amps which is enough for the CV. The harness is used for Arcaudio's amps which has similar power draws. If it ever pulls more than 25amps, I think it would blow the 165ACs right our of the fairing.
 
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I would upgrade the power and ground to 8g... personal preference and less resistance... its much better for the system. When into car audio quite a few years ago... used to run 0-2g for big systems... 4g was smallest I would run in any auto application.

Here is an Arc Audio Moto 600.4 with a system I just installed on a 16SGS....

IMG_20160814_082403_01.jpg
 
I went with the Rockford Fosgate amp because it has high level inputs so I didn't need a line leveler, bought the molex connectors and made my own plug & play harness.

FYI... The DSP ( Digital Signal Processor ) within the HD head unit is amplifying the output signal via the EQ curve and configuration file... you are thereby amplifying an amplified signal by not running a flash to flatten the EQ curve or line levelers to reduce the output of the factory deck... you could damage the amp... and you are also most likely getting a distorted output from the amp from too much power being fed into the amp. It may be louder, but not as efficient as is should or could be. Just some info for you to think about. RF amps are known for running hot on the scoots and clipping is a common occurrence as well.... not all of them, but alot of them... mainly the PBR300's.

One more key note if you haven't done this already... TURN OFF the AVC ( Auto Volume Control )... this also amplifies the signal within the head unit...and it WILL damage the amp.
 
I also installed a couple of cooling fans for the amp , it is the PBR300X2 , I could go get the dealer to flash it unless some one has come up with another way to flash it ?

I also run tunes from a USB flash drive exclusively if that makes any difference.
 
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I also installed a couple of cooling fans for the amp , it is the PBR300X2 , I could go get the dealer to flash it unless some one has come up with another way to flash it ?

I also run tunes from a USB flash drive exclusively if that makes any difference.

running the USB makes no difference...still runs thru the Head Unit and it's DSP
 


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