I have a 2015 street glide special with Moto 602's in the fairing and Pioneer 6x9's in bags, both bring powered by an Arc Audio Amp. I have the line levelers on the Moto 602's. I also have a PRV 8 inch midbass in (1) bag pushed by a separate amp. I know I have adequate power but the sound seems flat at times. I am not sure if I have the Arc Audio amp at the correct gains or what but something does not sound right. I have heard other bikes with only 2 speakers that sound a lot clearer. I'm wondering if an aftermarket head unit will produce better results? I've heard some you guys discussing flashing the head unit and others talk about sound processors.
Stock head unit versus aftermarket
- Thread starter BigLou66
- Start date
I PM'D you... I have a response for you in detail. I will send here and PM after work.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
( I am writing this out to aid others.... I have spoken to Louis already on the phone)
First off... Ensure your AVC ( Auto Volume Control ) is turned OFF. This feature automatically changes the EQ curve of the output signal to increase treble and decrease bass as you turn up the volume. This is ONE drawback of AVC... the SECOND is the fluctuation of the output signal going to the amp. IF your AVC was ON.... turn it OFF and re-tune your system and see if you have better results.
Aftermarket amps do NOT like having a fluctuation in input signal from the deck and Line Levelers can only do so much to control this.... AVC ON or OFF... they are limited. Flashing your head unit is ALWAYS the best option to achieve the FLATTEST EQ CURVE from the deck to give the signal the most stable voltage going into your amp. Another option is running a DSP... I run BOTH.. a flash and a DSP.
Once you get the head unit flashed to the correct configuration ( best configuration for FLATTEST EQ CURVE is 8 speaker ON 2 amp ON ) you will need to re-tune your system. Take the Line Levelers OFF... you use the Flash or the Line Levelers... NOT BOTH.
Ensure your amp is set to HPF ( High Pass Filter ). You will never achieve a decent sound with your amp in Full Range on a motorcycle.... it will NEVER happen ( unless you are a parking lot junkie ) You are throwing sound waves into the wind... the cleaner the sound leaves the speakers, the better you will here it. Most 6.5" speakers never hit lower than 60hz... so why even try.... filters them from 65-70hz on the freq. 6x9 and 5x7 variants can go a little lower, but they are ONLY midbass at best and a little better than 6.5"s due to their size ...55-60hz on the freq.
on the 14-current baggers, if you are tuning by ear, turn the gains down to 25% and leave your bass and treble flat ( in the middle ) and turn your volume up to 4 bars from the top. Slowly increase your gain on the front channels until you hear slight distortion...then back it down just a tad. Do the same with the rear. You now have a decent tune in your bike and you know that 4 bars from the top is about the max volume you want to go. You can tune if for higher, but why? 3 bars on my 15 RGS produces slight distortion with the amp turned down... none with 4 bars... so that was my little test and why I recommend no more than 4 bars from the top.
Hope this helps some folks out.
First off... Ensure your AVC ( Auto Volume Control ) is turned OFF. This feature automatically changes the EQ curve of the output signal to increase treble and decrease bass as you turn up the volume. This is ONE drawback of AVC... the SECOND is the fluctuation of the output signal going to the amp. IF your AVC was ON.... turn it OFF and re-tune your system and see if you have better results.
Aftermarket amps do NOT like having a fluctuation in input signal from the deck and Line Levelers can only do so much to control this.... AVC ON or OFF... they are limited. Flashing your head unit is ALWAYS the best option to achieve the FLATTEST EQ CURVE from the deck to give the signal the most stable voltage going into your amp. Another option is running a DSP... I run BOTH.. a flash and a DSP.
Once you get the head unit flashed to the correct configuration ( best configuration for FLATTEST EQ CURVE is 8 speaker ON 2 amp ON ) you will need to re-tune your system. Take the Line Levelers OFF... you use the Flash or the Line Levelers... NOT BOTH.
Ensure your amp is set to HPF ( High Pass Filter ). You will never achieve a decent sound with your amp in Full Range on a motorcycle.... it will NEVER happen ( unless you are a parking lot junkie ) You are throwing sound waves into the wind... the cleaner the sound leaves the speakers, the better you will here it. Most 6.5" speakers never hit lower than 60hz... so why even try.... filters them from 65-70hz on the freq. 6x9 and 5x7 variants can go a little lower, but they are ONLY midbass at best and a little better than 6.5"s due to their size ...55-60hz on the freq.
on the 14-current baggers, if you are tuning by ear, turn the gains down to 25% and leave your bass and treble flat ( in the middle ) and turn your volume up to 4 bars from the top. Slowly increase your gain on the front channels until you hear slight distortion...then back it down just a tad. Do the same with the rear. You now have a decent tune in your bike and you know that 4 bars from the top is about the max volume you want to go. You can tune if for higher, but why? 3 bars on my 15 RGS produces slight distortion with the amp turned down... none with 4 bars... so that was my little test and why I recommend no more than 4 bars from the top.
Hope this helps some folks out.
Spazz,
This is great information, thank you for taking time to share!
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