Throttle by wire

FLHX14

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Aug 30, 2014
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Can you all suggest the best way of getting all the wires through the bars? I am very concerned about the throttle wires and the mint green connector that will be inside the bar. Is there "good practice" and any special technique to be recommended?
Thanks!
 
Wire lube, lots of it. Patience, lots of it. Take your time, tug gently. Taping the wires together will help prevent pulling wires out of the connectors, just give them some reinforcement. Go slow, stay calm, use lube...lol

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Wire lube, lots of it. Patience, lots of it. Take your time, tug gently. Taping the wires together will help prevent pulling wires out of the connectors, just give them some reinforcement. Go slow, stay calm, use lube...lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Thanks for the encouragement danoday!

Will the lube mess with the electrical conductivity of the TBW, or any of the wiring?
 
No, you can buy wire lube, I wouldn't use a bearing grease type. Clear shipping tape is strong yet thin and flexible.
Most bars don't need electrical NAMS extensions, but I recommend using them, this will also save time and headaches instead of re-routing and loosening wire clamps.
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Last edited:
No, you can buy wire lube, I wouldn't use a bearing grease type. Clear shipping tape is strong yet thin and flexible.
Most bars don't need electrical NAMS extensions, but I recommend using them, this will also save time and headaches instead of re-routing and loosening wire clamps.
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OK thanks again!
 
I tied a 3/8 nut to a string and shook it down the handlebar. Once the string was in place, I pulled the throttle harness through using the string. Pull another string at the same time with the throttle harness. Once the throttle harness is through, use the other string to pull the switch harness through. The other side is easier. Only one harness to pull.

Don't pull hard on the string. Pull and push at the same time and use the cable lube available at HD or lowes. I thought it was going to be a lot worse than what it was. The whole thing took about 30 minutes.
 
I used weed eater wire fed that through then used black tape with some white grease. A little patience and it fed through.

417c373d1878b1b2c06fa68b0e819bdf.jpg



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Everything with getting the wires through the bars went easy as all said it would.

My problem with the job now is the fairing, specifically around the audio area looks like it is tweaked. Like the fairing is sitting slightly taller. The 2 other things I put in that aren't stock are Arlen Ness polyurethane bushings and a Paul Yaffe top clamp. Back at it again today after a weekend away from home.
 
Everything with getting the wires through the bars went easy as all said it would.

My problem with the job now is the fairing, specifically around the audio area looks like it is tweaked. Like the fairing is sitting slightly taller. The 2 other things I put in that aren't stock are Arlen Ness polyurethane bushings and a Paul Yaffe top clamp. Back at it again today after a weekend away from home.

The inner fairing will slide up and down and outward when completely disconnected. look closely at the area where the turn signals mount, the inner fairing has channel brackets that seemingly need to slide down onto the mount area. if you stand in front of the bike and straddle the front wheel and gently pick up on the inner fairing a few inches, the lower fairing down the brackets should slide in alignment where they mount up with screw holes near the left and right fork legs.
 
Also... make sure your brake line and clutch line aren't on TOP OF the bars at the point where the faring is.. it will push up on the faring. .. push the lines fwd in front of the bars.

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Throttle by wire

Everything with getting the wires through the bars went easy as all said it would.

My problem with the job now is the fairing, specifically around the audio area looks like it is tweaked. Like the fairing is sitting slightly taller. The 2 other things I put in that aren't stock are Arlen Ness polyurethane bushings and a Paul Yaffe top clamp. Back at it again today after a weekend away from home.

I installed a pair of Arlen Ness polyurethane bushings on my 16 SG and they fit fine. Check what Spazz said or check if their is a difference between PY & stock top clamp.

9969b4fa5aa7707003435c9d2881535b.jpg



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Also... make sure your brake line and clutch line aren't on TOP OF the bars at the point where the faring is.. it will push up on the faring. .. push the lines fwd in front of the bars.

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I did find that they were on top but I corrected that as you suggested. Thanks Spazz.
 
I installed a pair of Arlen Ness polyurethane bushings on my 16 SG and they fit fine. Check what Spazz said or check if their is a difference between PY & stock top clamp.

9969b4fa5aa7707003435c9d2881535b.jpg



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I am returning this exact part because Wild 1 told me to not use polyurethane bushings.
 
Did they say why not to use polyurethane?

Did you go back to stock?


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That it always seems with reinstallation that pieces of the fairing and dash panel never quite look the same. The polyurethane bushing are taller and the bars I used are 1.25" in diamater in the areas I am having fitment issues. Bought a brand new set of HD rubber bushings and right now, things don't feel spongy. I hope in time I am not further disappointed.
 


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