Tuner that gives accurate HP & TQ numbers?

[GlideLife]

Does anybody know if there is a tuner or ECM replacement device on the market that provides factual rear wheel "numbers" for HORSEPOWER & TORQUE PRODUCED like a qualified dynamometer session does?

Just curious. I cannot find one on the internet or by speaking directly with techs from various manufacturers.

 

[hulkss]

If you know the total weight of your bike, yourself, fuel, oil, etc. there are devices available that measure acceleration and calculate the required horsepower to achieve that acceleration. You can download an app that does this for your smart phone.

 

[GunHawk]

Take a look at Vance and Hines FP3, uses bluetooth tech and shows torque/horsepower. Don't know how accurate it is, but worth a look.

 

[GlideLife]

Yep. Thanks. Quite familiar with FP3. My neighbor has one on his '14 RK. It tells him he has 98 HP & 112 TQ with HD slip ons, a Ness big sucker & stock OEM headpipe with cat con's removed. We're both pretty convinced the #'s are probably a "stretch" at the very least. V&H tells him the #'s are "probably"... "pretty close to actual", but he "should do a dyno run if he wants to verify".

My "actual" (calibrated) dynojet 250 #'s are only 87.41 & 108.88, & my (heavier) SG walks his RK like he's pulling a boat trailer. We switched bikes & same result. *I outweigh him by about 30 lbs. My SGS had a full tank of fuel and his was less than half. I also get slightly better MPG than he does, consistently.

Please don't misunderstand me... I am aware that the FP3 tuner with AUTOTUNE feature from V&H is, in fact, a terrific, and well thought out unit. Makes tuning simple & has some great features. But as far as "REAL" numbers from it?... I'm not at all convinced.

I think that some of us are wanting factual HP & TQ numbers from our "investment" in performance parts on our bikes, as evidenced by the many signatures on here that post their numbers (some of which "appear" to "maybe" be "just a little" unrealistic to this old geezer, anyway...).

That's why I'm still looking to identify a tuner that'll provide (accurate) "REAR WHEEL" numbers without spending $$ on a dyno session (I'm, personally still very pleased that I spent well under $500 on a FULL dyno "tuning" session). But Thank you for responding. I appreciate you taking the time to do so. This forum rocks.

 

[hulkss]

I think that some of us are wanting factual HP & TQ numbers from our "investment" in performance parts on our bikes, as evidenced by the many signatures on here that post their numbers (some of which "appear" to "maybe" be "just a little" unrealistic to this old geezer, anyway...).

There is no way for the general public to get "accurate numbers to compare" - and I am referring to the best data from a chassis dynamometer, not some BS calculation in a tuner. The data "smoothing" and correction factors alone can be properly used or manipulated to change dyno power numbers in a big way. Air temperature, barometric pressure, engine temperature, oil temperature, fuel quality, gear selection, tire pressure all cause significant differences on a dyno and vary day to day. Forget comparing numbers except from the same dynamometer, with back-to-back tests, operated by the same honest guy.

 

[GlideLife]

Well said hulkss. Could not agree more with THAT assessment. I spent months researching and interviewing dynamometer operators and their particular shops... Even before I rode out of the dealership on my new SGS. Well credentialed, honest, dyno operators that are willing to take the time to ask you what exactly you want from your bike and also make "suggestions" to HELP you make the final decision are HARD TO FIND. I FOUND THE PERFECT ONE for me.

Doc encourages bike owners to stay, and watch the entire process. He stopped at every stage to show me exactly what he was doing and explain why. He encouraged me to ask questions and voice any concerns. He is a TRUE PROFESSIONAL. That's why he gets the reviews he gets.


....and, by the way...I STAY AWAY FROM THE STD "smoothing" numbers.
It's SAE only for me.

 

[hulkss]

It's SAE only for me.

Which SAE? It makes a difference
SAE J1995 corrects to 77°F day with 0% humidity and a barometric pressure of 29.530 in-Hg
SAE J1349 corrects to 77°F day with 0% humidity and a barometric pressure of 29.234 in-Hg
SAE J607 corrects to 60°F day with 0% humidity and a barometric pressure of 29.92 in-Hg

J1349 is net power, J1995 is gross power. Net power is the "true" power delivered from an engine. J607 is for bragging about big HP numbers.

And the test procedures should follow SAE J2723 to receive a rating of "SAE Certified Power"

 

[GlideLife]

Lol Huh?? I'm certain you know that we're talking about a chassis dyno here, so actually those SAE standards really don't make a difference to ME. My dyno guy started talking about them briefly, but I lost interest real quick. At my "consumer level", I am not that concerned with the SAE's various standards, as long as my dyno guy has his DYNOJET RESEARCH rear wheel dyno certified and calibrated by Dynojet Research at various intervals.

Those standards are mainly for automotive/motorcycle manufacturers who test power on an engine dynamometer so that there is relatively NO AMBIGUITY. Dynojet uses similar standards when manufacturing their chassis dynamometers.... The SAE gives DynajetResearch permission to use their standards, but with all the variables (you mentioned some earlier) on a chassis dyno... Well...you know.

Please forgive me for opening this can, as the worms are now all over the floor...

Obviously your knowledge of the subject is 4 or five stories above mine. At my level...I get ALL exited when I can change all my fluids without making a mess.

Thanks, Rusty

 

[hulkss]

A good read here:

Why all dynos don’t necessarily give the same results

 

[GlideLife]

Thanks for that.
One of the many reasons I love this forum.
Actually better to say I NEED THIS FORUM.
* I actually read this in American Iron mag several years ago.
This article is the reason I contacted Dynojet Research to find a trustworthy credentialed operator in my state.

Thanks again.
Stay safe. Stay warm. Geesh! Minnesota.
Rusty

 

[Mojo]

Even though my signature has my results based on that little piece of paper they give you when they finish, I judge more by the seat of my pants and how it compares to the many rentals I ride.