Chrome hand controls added

Spazz

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Feb 22, 2014
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I decided to add some additional chrome.... got rhe housings for $120 today... me likes!

acdca94065e9d983d4eb4491fe79a0a3.jpg
 
Looks good, now time to change the master cylinder.


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I think I will just get the chrome covers for hyd and brake reservoirs. .. I like the contrast
 
I chromed out my controls also and the master cylinder, hydraulic reservoir, I have the same ness grips I was surprised how comfortable the grips are on long rides.

It really adds a good look to the bike, especially keeping the black buttons.

your look great with the Yaffe bars.
 
Spazz- Were they hard to install?

Not at all... just have to remove the clamps holding on the resevoirs and unbolt the covers and replace them. should take less than 20-30 minutes.... SHOULD.. let me explain. as NOONE is perfect... LOL

I will say that you must be VERY CAREFUL with removing the trip switch button on the left... it can be tricky and may just want to have a tech at the dealer remove it for you ( takes like 10 seconds to be honest... WITH NO TOOLS ) but I will tell you why....

The directions have you slightly lift the trip button.. it will come up just a little and stay... you can try this. Then it says to GENTLY slide the button to the left to remove it... mine didn't want to go 'gently'... it wouldn't budge. I could see how it slid off, but for the life of me it would not slide. I am a maintenance guy... this wasn't 'rocket science'. I finally got it off... but if you break the button, it's $10 to replace it... break the plastic tab retainer on the housing... it's $233!!! I was able to fix mine without a problem, but if I have a problem later.... Chester's HD will replace it under warranty ( great folks )

What the directions don't say is while you are sliding left, you should slightly lift up on the left side to get the button tab to slide over the top of the plastic that retains the button!!!

I didn't 'know' I broke it until the reassembly and the button would not stay on or 'click' into place. I went down to Chester's and looked at a new button... mine was the same... took out a housing and I had broken a 1/16" piece of the plastic on the button housing. They used my button on the new housing and ensured it worked. Then I went home and fixed mine in about 5 minutes.

Long story short and word to the wise... just run by the service department and have one of those guys remove the button for you prior to leaving with your chrome housings... save the time and maybe some money.....
 
Last edited:
Spazz,

Quit breaking stuff! Seriously, good to know the info to prevent this from happening to some one else.

Is your new grip slant cut on the end? Hard to tell for sure from the camera angle.

David


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Spazz,

Quit breaking stuff! Seriously, good to know the info to prevent this from happening to some one else.

Is your new grip slant cut on the end? Hard to tell for sure from the camera angle.

David


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Yes.... Arlen Ness Deep Cut Grips... over-sized and WAY more comfortable....

JCM-M-1053.jpg


61yXE11wyZL._SX522_.jpg
 
Not at all... just have to remove the clamps holding on the resevoirs and unbolt the covers and replace them. should take less than 20-30 minutes.... SHOULD.. let me explain. as NOONE is perfect... LOL

I will say that you must be VERY CAREFUL with removing the trip switch button on the left... it can be tricky and may just want to have a tech at the dealer remove it for you ( takes like 10 seconds to be honest... WITH NO TOOLS ) but I will tell you why....

The directions have you slightly lift the trip button.. it will come up just a little and stay... you can try this. Then it says to GENTLY slide the button to the left to remove it... mine didn't want to go 'gently'... it wouldn't budge. I could see how it slid off, but for the life of me it would not slide. I am a maintenance guy... this wasn't 'rocket science'. I finally got it off... but if you break the button, it's $10 to replace it... break the plastic tab retainer on the housing... it's $233!!! I was able to fix mine without a problem, but if I have a problem later.... Chester's HD will replace it under warranty ( great folks )

What the directions don't say is while you are sliding left, you should slightly lift up on the left side to get the button tab to slide over the top of the plastic that retains the button!!!

I didn't 'know' I broke it until the reassembly and the button would not stay on or 'click' into place. I went down to Chester's and looked at a new button... mine was the same... took out a housing and I had broken a 1/16" piece of the plastic on the button housing. They used my button on the new housing and ensured it worked. Then I went home and fixed mine in about 5 minutes.

Long story short and word to the wise... just run by the service department and have one of those guys remove the button for you prior to leaving with your chrome housings... save the time and maybe some money.....
I just did the chrome covers the other day when I changed out the Handlebars and installed the heated grips and know exactly what you mean about that stupid little switch. I managed to get mine off without breaking it as I had seen a lost on how to change the handlebars and it outlined the removal process....in the end it felt like it broke coming off but didn't.

For reference if I do happen to break one of the switch housings at some time in the future I will be replacing them with the lighted switches which sell for $$207 (at Kutter) for the pair....left and right which is a better option IMO.

I also like the contrast (after having the full chrome kit on my RK) and I'm leaving both hydraulic reservoirs black with chrome lids.....looks very cool this way and not like every otter bike out there.

I really like those grips Spazz........I just couldn't live without the heated grips after having had them.....the older I get the softer I get :D
 
I just did the chrome covers the other day when I changed out the Handlebars and installed the heated grips and know exactly what you mean about that stupid little switch. I managed to get mine off without breaking it as I had seen a lost on how to change the handlebars and it outlined the removal process....in the end it felt like it broke coming off but didn't.

For reference if I do happen to break one of the switch housings at some time in the future I will be replacing them with the lighted switches which sell for $$207 (at Kutter) for the pair....left and right which is a better option IMO.

I also like the contrast (after having the full chrome kit on my RK) and I'm leaving both hydraulic reservoirs black with chrome lids.....looks very cool this way and not like every otter bike out there.

I really like those grips Spazz........I just couldn't live without the heated grips after having had them.....the older I get the softer I get :D
Im glad I'm not the only one that had issues...glad you didnt break it...

I see that BOTH lighted hand controls are $249 on MOCO site... not bad... can't believe one side of OEM is $230.... unreal.....
 
Last edited:
Im glad I'm not the only one that had issues...glad you didnt break it...

I see that BOTH lighted hand controls are $249 on MOCO site... not bad... can't believe one side of OEM is $230.... unreal.....

I pulled up the installation instructions the other day and apparently it's a very easy swap as the existing cables just disconnect/reconnect at the housing so no wiring needed....looks like an easy change once you have the covers off.
 
I pulled up the installation instructions the other day and apparently it's a very easy swap as the existing cables just disconnect/reconnect at the housing so no wiring needed....looks like an easy change once you have the covers off.
Lol!!! Yeah... until it comes to that freakin button again!!
 
Lighted switches should be stock on a touring scoot.


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I agree but in reality after the first few rides the switches should just come to be a part of your right and left thumbs.......If I do break one however I will be replacing them with the lighted switches.
 
Very true. For some reason I have a hard time finding the horn button when I need it probably because I don't use it all that often.


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I find a lot of little improvement that should have been made on the SGS.


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Kudos to the engineers in Milwaukee who SIGNIFICANTLY simplified the process for switching out to chrome switch housings. I was a bit apprehensive about trying it myself, having read all the posts online for earlier models, involving removing all kinds of smaller interior screws, etc. The switch housings on the 2015 FLHXS are SUPER easy…all one piece construction. Just off with the old and on with the new.
 
I just replaced my switch housings and was surprised that there was a slight gap on the top. The black stock were tight. Does anyone else have a gap? Oh, for getting the switch out I watched a video where they took a small screw driver and lifted up on the center of the switch and it slid right off.
 


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