Loose nut, no start

09 Softail C

Member
Jan 8, 2017
157
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18
So after owning my 17 SGS for almost 18 months it was starting to crank over slow. Hearing that Harley batteries frquently only last about a year I replaced it with an aftermarket brand that carries a 2 year warranty. I have used this brand on other bikes with great satisfaction. After almost a month the bike would start to turn over and just stop cranking even while holding the start button down. I would have to turn off the igntion switch turn it back on and the bike would start right up fine, that is until last weekend after I washed it and tried to start it. It started to crank and just stopped, turning the ign switch off and on did noting. I don't know why but something told me to check the wiring. I started at the starter (where else would you start ;) ) and found the nut holding the cable on almost completly backed off, in fact I think it only stayed on as it was welded to the stud from arcing. I had to brake is loose, the threads on the stud and the nut were damaged. I took a new nut and carefully threaded it on using some force to get past the damaged part. Enough force that I thought may brake the stud loose from the starter, luckily it did not. My guess is the original nut was never tight from the factory. So word of caution double check your nuts boys.
 
Replace that stud!
The stud is attached to a contact in the starter solenoid which probably got twisted out of alignment. There are two contacts in the solenoid that have to be seated flat and tight to make good contact with the plunger solenoid. This is going to be a problem now or down the road because of uneven contact wear.
If the nut was on that tight (welded) and you felt the stud could break establishing new threads with a new nut, the contact inside is probably twisted out of alignment.
 
Replace that stud!
The stud is attached to a contact in the starter solenoid which probably got twisted out of alignment. There are two contacts in the solenoid that have to be seated flat and tight to make good contact with the plunger solenoid. This is going to be a problem now or down the road because of uneven contact wear.
If the nut was on that tight (welded) and you felt the stud could break establishing new threads with a new nut, the contact inside is probably twisted out of alignment.

Thanks for the advice. I was concerned it would come loose during the repair, I am confident I was lucky and it did not. For now I am going to leave it alone. It has been starting just fine.
 
All my batteries in my metrics all lasted at least 3-4 years and the OEM even longer. Does Harley have a bad supplier or does the security system just shorten the life? Mine is a ‘16 and hoping to get at least thru this season although I tender it when not riding regularly.
 
FWIW-I bought my 2008 FXDF Fatbob in Nov. of 2007.
I'm still running the original battery.
11years and 30,000 miles...
 
you've heard wrong about the Harley batteries, they seem to be far better than most aftermarket ones. If you ride your bike regularly, i get four to five years without issue but past there i tend to replace them for peace of mind.
Tim
 


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