yes... Freq control will adjust settings if either HP or LP are turned on... no affect if you are in AF mode
EDIT:
Just looked at a pic of the PBR.. so your dip switch is set to AF ( in the middle ) correct?
and what is your GAIN set to?
Speaker upgrade
- Thread starter El Chapo
- Start date
yes... Freq control will adjust settings if either HP or LP are turned on... no affect if you are in AF mode
EDIT:
Just looked at a pic of the PBR.. so your dip switch is set to AF ( in the middle ) correct?
and what is your GAIN set to?
You guys are a tremendous help. I just got my pbr300x2 and Polk mm651s ( Amazon shipped and delivered on a Sunday. Very unexpected) now I'm going thru all the posts to make sure I have an idea of what I'm doing. I still need a fuse then I can start the install.
2014 sgs
From what I've gathered:
I shouldn't (but may) need to wire in a remote wire to a switched source. (cigarette socket seems popular)
Need a 30 amp fuse. I have plenty of 8awg stranded wire
Need a mount (much preferred over zip ties or high temp double stick tape)
Filter Switch set to full pass
Speakers will need internal mounting (and pods trimmed to fit)
Now do I need a flash? I'm getting mixed feedback on this. I also saw a video of using a voltmeter to set the gain and wondering if you guys suggest this method or just to start low and work it up until clipping occurs.
Also curse whoever made those speaker pods. I thought cracking those open was going to be the easy part.
Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk
2014 sgs
From what I've gathered:
I shouldn't (but may) need to wire in a remote wire to a switched source. (cigarette socket seems popular)
Need a 30 amp fuse. I have plenty of 8awg stranded wire
Need a mount (much preferred over zip ties or high temp double stick tape)
Filter Switch set to full pass
Speakers will need internal mounting (and pods trimmed to fit)
Now do I need a flash? I'm getting mixed feedback on this. I also saw a video of using a voltmeter to set the gain and wondering if you guys suggest this method or just to start low and work it up until clipping occurs.
Also curse whoever made those speaker pods. I thought cracking those open was going to be the easy part.
Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk
Last edited:
If I understand it correctly either a flash or Magic box from Cycle Sounds or the highly recommended Biketronics line leveler. They all accomplish the same thing. My opinion either the line leveler or magic box is the way to go without risking a flash which sometimes causes other problems. I hear a flash causes some unwanted issues. Let me know because I have my stuff on the way and will install once time permits.
baggersnation as a video that shows how to install & adjust but its on a RG http://baggernation.com/item.php?iid=132
I ended up messing with the equalizer on my iPhone....treble booster then added base to y liking....did the trick
I have decided to go in two stages due to her indoors griping about my spend.
First a set of the infinity kappa 62.11, then end March with a RF amp.
Just please tell me what is involved with the install of this amp and why the dealership need to "flash" the bike after install?
Thanks
First a set of the infinity kappa 62.11, then end March with a RF amp.
Just please tell me what is involved with the install of this amp and why the dealership need to "flash" the bike after install?
Thanks
OK...the flash...
HD will hook you bike to Digital Technician, a unit to alter parameters within the head unit. The Head Unit ( radio ) has an internal processor for signals ( DSP). The way the HU is set from HD is to be utilized without an amp and the DSP amplifies the signal and has specific EQ curves that adjust with volume control and with AVC ( automatic Volume control ) enabled. First and formost... DISABLE AVC.
The goal of the flash is to achieve the FLATTEST EQ curve possible across the volume range and disable any amplifying of the signal from the DSP. This will allow an aftermarket amp to perform at is optimum with little to no interference from an amplified signal within the radio from the DSP.
In a nutshell, you are turning off any amplified signal from the radio so the amp will do all the work as it's supposed to. Sending an amplified signal into an amp is not good for the amp and will not perform as intended and can damage the amp.
Now.. you have an alternative.... MAGIC BOX or BT LINE LEVELERS.
Each of these units do NOT require a flash because they reduce the output signal of the HU BEFORE it goes into the amp, virtually trying to achieve the same result as getting a flash.
I have no personal experience with either the MAGIC BOX or BT LINE LEVELERS, but have read many threads on both and I would do the same to see which one you want, personally... if I were to go this route, I would be leaning to BikeTronics Line Levers over the Magic Box.... that's my .02.
Many people have gone either way and are happy with what they have done... I have a flash. I told the HD Tech doing my flash EXACTLY what I wanted done for MY SYSTEM to work at its optimum. You MUST do the same and know what you need done to make it work to it's optimum.
It's not as easy as walking into HD Service and saying, "I need a flash for an aftermarket amp." There are many variables and checkboxes within digital Tech that, if not set correctly for you system, can alter your output in a bad way and you will be disappointed... trust me... I have done this on an experimental basis to check the output quality.
Your best bet is to contact the brand of amp and ask them for specific details on what needs to be done to flash your system correctly. Each company has different requirements for a flash for there amps. I can tell you my specifics, but that doesn't help you if you have BRAND A and I have BRAND B amp.
I hope this sheds a little light for you...
Well I just finished my install and gotta say it's loud and sounds good. I installed everything without line levelers or a flash but I'm using the tone settings to find what works best. Also the Pbr300 triggered just fine via the high level input without the need of a remote wire.
Gonna take it back out and see how it sounds in the freeway once rush hour dies down. Still haven't played with the gain enough to be convinced I have it set right.
Sent from my Droid Turbo 2 using Tapatalk.
Gonna take it back out and see how it sounds in the freeway once rush hour dies down. Still haven't played with the gain enough to be convinced I have it set right.
Sent from my Droid Turbo 2 using Tapatalk.
Without line levers or a flash, you can possibly damage the amp or blow speakers... there is too much power going to the amp without a flash or line levers. You can do what you want, but be warned.
You are amplifying an amplified signal.. and it changes with volume ( via the DSP in the head unit ) NOT GOOD.......
