You're very welcome sir. Being that you're an engineer, I'm sure you will enjoy doing the build yourself. I can't wait to hear how it turns out.
120ST woes.... it's going in for teardown...
- Thread starter Spazz
- Start date
You're very welcome sir. Being that you're an engineer, I'm sure you will enjoy doing the build yourself. I can't wait to hear how it turns out.
Hulkss why not send your 4 5/8 crank to Darkhorse and let him put in the longer rods .
With longer rods and the longer stroke, the cylinders would need to be longer. The engine would be taller and the engine would not fit in the frame, plus the exhaust and intake would not fit.
The bolts holding the exhaust crossover on my bike broke off in the transmission housing, so I took it in for a warranty repair.
I also had the service writer document that the engine was making piston slap sounds on start up that continued until warmed up.
They fixed the exhaust and changed the oil and filter (for free) from synthetic to H-D 20W-50 mineral oil. Now it's noticeably quieter on start-up due to the oil being thicker than synthetic when cold. They said the the factory is recommending this and the big motors are going to have some piston slap when cold.
I agree that this is just the way it is going to be with a big air cooled motor, forged pistons, and mass production tolerances.
There are a number of 25W50 and 25W60 oils that would probably be good for theses engines.
I also had the service writer document that the engine was making piston slap sounds on start up that continued until warmed up.
They fixed the exhaust and changed the oil and filter (for free) from synthetic to H-D 20W-50 mineral oil. Now it's noticeably quieter on start-up due to the oil being thicker than synthetic when cold. They said the the factory is recommending this and the big motors are going to have some piston slap when cold.
I agree that this is just the way it is going to be with a big air cooled motor, forged pistons, and mass production tolerances.
There are a number of 25W50 and 25W60 oils that would probably be good for theses engines.
Hulkss.... this was a BIG change in noise levels for me at the 1k service.... did you go back to synthetic or still running the dino oil?
I read the BREAK-IN SECRETS link you sent... makes PERFECT sense and thought about the differences that took place between my 14SGS and 15RGS.... MAJOR difference in what I did.
I talked to a few engine builders and they all said the basically the same thing... full throttle roll-ons and full decel in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th..... gonna do this when I get my scoot back and TRAILER it home since the dealership is 55 miles of highway driving home. I will unload and take her out for initial run and break-in. after 20-30 miles... I will drain er and change the filter.... I have a 2000+ mile trip coming up in August... so I gotta get er done right!
Thanks a lot for all the GREAT info and details.
This is exactly the way we have been breaking in large (and I mean large, like 90 CI per cylinder) air cooled aircraft engines for YEARS. They are never run below 75% power for the first 25-50 hours so it has never made sense to me why Harley suggests such babying of new engines and I have always ridden them hard (once warmed up) when new and have always had strong running, low oil consuming bikes that have gone the distance
It's not that Mineral oil is better, no way is it better for your engine than synthetic. The issue is viscosity at cold start-up.
For most engines, start-up viscosity is way to thick, like starting a car in temperatures below freezing.
I live in Minnesota and I don't start my bike below freezing... The forged pistons in big bore high performance Harley motors are loose in the bore when cold and we are not subjecting the engine to sub-freezing starts.
I would like a 25W-50 or 25W-60 synthetic oil. Here's one: https://www.klotzlube.com/Ecommerce/site/content/PDFs/TECH/KH-2560-Tech-Sheet.pdf
Here's a Mineral oil: http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/2C746316553A082B80257ECB00732449/$File/PDS%20CCSA%20Castrol%20GTX%20HM%2025W-60%20english.pdf
Klotz 20w 50, Klotz primary and Klotz transmission oil is what I run in all my Builds. I have run Amsoil, Mobile 1 , and the Harley Brews. In the engine amsoil and Klotz are about the same but a lot quieter than the Harley and mobile 1. I can also tell a change in the clutches with the Klotz it bites a lot better when shifting hard.
Well.... should be back to me this week.... ( heard that before ) had some issues to iron out that I cannot get into just yet. As far as upgrades... they will have to wait... so it's back to 'spec' for the 120 right now....
B
Bones
Guest
I am not a mechanic so be patient if I ask what may be a stupid question.
When starting a cold engine....should I sit on the bike and hold it vertical or is it okay to start a cold engine while leaning on the kick stand? Will the engine pick up oil quicker on starts in a vertical position?
When starting a cold engine....should I sit on the bike and hold it vertical or is it okay to start a cold engine while leaning on the kick stand? Will the engine pick up oil quicker on starts in a vertical position?
You can start it on the jiffy stand... the pump will get the oil going just as quick. warm it up before jumping on... always....
Well.... I FINALLY got her back in the garage tonight... WHEW!!! Long time without riding. 5 weeks and 5 days. HOLY CRAP!
There is a lot of drama that went down that I cannot discuss just yet... in time... Let's just say you need to make sure of EVERYTHING on your end and THE DEALER's END to ensure EVERYBODY knows just exactly what you got... and are getting. It was an informative, yet bumpy road.
Heads were rebuilt, upgraded seals, new jugs, new pistons and rings. She sounds much quieter now as well... maybe since I haven't heard her in a while... who knows.
Time to break her in and quick! I leave for a 2000 mile trip in 10 days... nothing like cutting it close... LOL!
There is a lot of drama that went down that I cannot discuss just yet... in time... Let's just say you need to make sure of EVERYTHING on your end and THE DEALER's END to ensure EVERYBODY knows just exactly what you got... and are getting. It was an informative, yet bumpy road.
Heads were rebuilt, upgraded seals, new jugs, new pistons and rings. She sounds much quieter now as well... maybe since I haven't heard her in a while... who knows.
Time to break her in and quick! I leave for a 2000 mile trip in 10 days... nothing like cutting it close... LOL!
B
Bones
Guest
Enjoy being back on Raven and try to relax during the break-in.....I imagine you will be on edge, aware of every noise and vibration.
Yep... he is a believer now. LOL!
I got 185 miles on her yesterday..... since I trailered her home... I did the right thing. I warmed her up to temp, headed to a close by remote service road and started my break-in.... 2nd gear 1700rpms and rolled the throttle to 100% to 5000 rpms and let her engine break back down to 1700... hit 3rd... same thing.. to 5000 rpms and back down... then 4th.... same process. I did this for 10 miles.... then headed home to let her cool down for 45 minutes to an hour.
Next.... I started her up and let her idle to 205 degrees... hopped on and hit the freeway.... 4th gear at 65mph and rolled in on to 100% throttle to 85mph and decal to 65... did this several times.... then in 5th... then in sixth.....did another round of that... then stayed between 5th and 6th gear gogging speed the same way from 65-85mph and alternating 5th and 6th. Hit some twisties in the mountains... so had some fun draggin floorboards and different speeds and different gears.....for 175 more miles between freeways and mountain twisties.
She is running really good and MPG is way over what it used to be. I started with a full tank and after 185 miles ( doing what I described above ) I still have 3/8 of a tank.... and she is running 240-250 ET's down the freeway....
I'm happy.... VERY happy...
Wife and I are taking off after work for a small ride, then to dinner with friends... she can't wait to get on my scoot again... been way too long
