One hundred twenty cubic inches!

Spazz, I am asking this to learn, how did you determine to use or a combination of use, when figuring a adjustable lifter vs. solid and fix length vs. adj push rod? is there a particular power threshold or formula? Thanks.

Danoday

It wasn't rocket science for me with the 120ST. SE259 cams/SE lifters and standard SE perfect fit pushrods are within the standard build of the 120ST. No mods to these areas from the norm. Getting SE adjustables was just a choice I made. Now with that in mind, several other cams out there have different diameter centerlobes and require a bit of research to finalize a choice.... luckily I didn't have to go that route.

The adjustable pushrod adjustments vary between manufacturers depending on the thread pitch of the adjusters themselves. S&S have a set procedure for their adjustables at 3.5 full turns out from contacting ( no play ) lifters and rocker at TDC which equates to 21 turns on the flats ( 6-sided adjuster nut ).... SE's are different and call for 2.5 full turns (15 flats ).... just for an example.

The most used material is chromoly for the pushrods and you wanna stick with a high quality. S&S and Feuling are great choices as well. Be warned!!!! Some pushrods REQUIRE the use of aftermarket pushrod covers to gain access to the adjusters as the stock sets are too long. This is in the FINE PRINT of instructions and found on the websites... so if you are going aftermarket, buy the COMPLETE set of pushrods with covers to save you some grief during the install.. not the time you want to find this out. I did my research and found out beforehand.

NOTE ADDED:

The adjustable pushrods are still a 'FIXED' pushrod... you now have the ability to get them JUST RIGHT, rather than slapping in a 'not so perfect' fixed length out of the box. The ability to set and adjust gives you correct length for each lifter and rocker. There is a 0.0200 gap of collapse within the SE lifter springs. The goal is to set the pushrods to 0.0100 into the gap. This allows the hydraulics to still work the additional 0.0100 during operation. ( going from memory right now... so my numbers could be skewed.. it could be 0.2 )
 
Spazz, can you use adjustable lifters with adjustable rods? Thanks again for answering.
 
Spazz, can you use adjustable lifters with adjustable rods? Thanks again for answering.

yes you can....hydraulic lifters are and can be used with adjustable pushrods. just lets you adjust more accurately than a 'perfect fit' non- adjustable pushrod
 
One thing I am doing here shortly is changing out the SE perfect fit pushrods to SE adjustables... I have what they call 'normal' valvetrain noise in my 120ST... hasn't got worse or any better, but I want to see if I can calm it down a bit. They tell me its common.....

I would never use adjustable push rods. You can not adjust out valve train noise unless something is wrong and the liters are sticky or operating out of their designed-in travel range. One piece push rods are lighter, stiffer, more reliable, quieter, and the correct perfect fit length. Adjustables are for easy installation only in my opinion.
 
True... to a point. They are designed to be a 'perfect fit'... but not necessarily PERFECT for every application. There are several guys that use adjustables for an exact measurement to make solid pushrods for a particular application. So a perfect fit may not be so perfect in every given application

Sent from Note4
 
The bike is being worked on today. They were swapping out my 12 point engine cover screws from Diamond Engineering.

Screws.jpeg
 
I can't imagine using solid lifters with steel push rods and aluminum cylinders and heads. An air cooled motor is all over the place temperature wise based on air temperature and engine load or power output. The change in length needed to accommodate the difference in thermal expansion between aluminum and steel is substantial, hence the need for hydraulic self adjusting lifters. The lifters can not tell the difference between length or expansion/contraction. Just keep them in their operating range which is quite easy to do.
 
Hulkss, I want to see your numbers when done. I have not dyno'd my 120ST as of yet. I may have an opportunity to have a FREE dyno run, just to see what mine does just with the PV and TT that has been configured by Jamie Long of FM.... I hope I can get it done ( curiosity is killing me! )

I won't see a dyno until I ride to Fuel Moto sometime this summer. I probably have the same tuning file from Jamie.

I'm surprised you can hear engine noise with that Thunder Header. I hope I get a quiet one.
 
Well I hope you get a quieter one as well, but the cams themselves are noisy. Spazz I am with you on the adj pushrods I have always run them in my bikes. But it is just my opinion, the cool thing is an opinion is something we always get to have. Lol
 
I won't see a dyno until I ride to Fuel Moto sometime this summer. I probably have the same tuning file from Jamie.

I'm surprised you can hear engine noise with that Thunder Header. I hope I get a quiet one.
Looking fwd to seeing the numbers... I surely hope you get a quieter one as well.

The tune Jamie did on the PV and TT works very well. I haven't done much in data logging yet as the weather is still spotty and haven't had more than a couple days in a row to ride and log miles. So much to learn with the PV...

Sent from Note4
 
Well I hope you get a quieter one as well, but the cams themselves are noisy. Spazz I am with you on the adj pushrods I have always run them in my bikes. But it is just my opinion, the cool thing is an opinion is something we always get to have. Lol

For sure.

I had an adjustable pushrod go into "self adjust mode" while I was riding once, so my opinion may be a bit biased but based on fact.
 
For sure.

I had an adjustable pushrod go into "self adjust mode" while I was riding once, so my opinion may be a bit biased but based on fact.

That's seems reasonable... I would feel that way, too I believe.
 
The 120ST has the "Screamin' Eagle Lefty Bearing". This is a cylindrical roller bearing which in my opinion is significantly superior to a tapered roller bearing (aka Timken) in this application.

SCREAMIN’ EAGLE LEFTY BEARING
When high-performance engine modifications are made, the
increased torque is transferred via the crankshaft to the drive
system, putting a significantly higher load on the bearing. The
Lefty Bearing is case hardened on the inner and outer race
to provide increased load capacity and enhanced durability
in high-torque applications. The bearing is installed in the left
side of the crank case and supports the output shaft to the
primary drive system.

Lefty.jpg
 
It will be delivered back to me this Monday. Still snow and salt on the roads here.
 
It will be delivered back to me this Monday. Still snow and salt on the roads here.

Well... I can't wait for you to get on that beast.... hardest part is breaking it in.... LOL! It just wants to GOOOOOOOO!
 
The timken set up is far superior to the "lefty" bearing.they lend ALOT more stability to the lower end.if it was a 1 piece lower end,a roller bearing would be fine,but being a 3 piece flywheel,the timken set helps keeping them straight
 


Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
8,034
Messages
69,478
Members
15,208
Latest member
matta317