One hundred twenty cubic inches!

The bike is being picked up by my H-D Dealer Feb 8th. It will be about two days of labor for the complete transformation: Engine swap, oil pan, clutch, new exhaust, new tires, floating front rotors, brake pads, flush front axle. I got a nice discount on the total package.

The used engine is worth about $2K on Craigs list or ebay. I'll keep it on a display stand for awhile.

Spazz: Are you looking at the Rekluse centrifugal clutch?

GlideLife: The bike will be a totally stock 120ST ;) You can't buy one any other way at this time.
 
GlideLife: The bike will be a totally stock 120ST ;) You can't buy one any other way at this time.

Thanks for that HULKSS. She's not buying it.
This is her year for toys. Mine was last year.
I just can't wait for the new kitchen. I'm sooo excited.Lol
 
GlideLife I feel your pain.....I did NOTHING to the bike last year cause the wife needed new cabinets and countertop! It was a clusterf*ck install but finally got done and is pretty awesome i must say! She is happy & i'm happy that this year is all mine!!! Got me a list and ready to start buying!!!
 
Out of curiosity, what does a complete 120st crate motor cost?
 
I'm already looking at the FM124 kit.

For more power I would put in the 120R Cam (266E) and use a "good tuner". Good for 30+ more horsepower. Relatively cheap, easy, and proven.

I have concerns with other modifications:

1. I would not alter the MVA heads. They are designed for good performance across all rpm's and throttle openings not just WOT. It's easy to make more peak power but part throttle performance and drive-ability will suffer.

2. I would not raise the compression ratio. Big bore cylinders are always a challenge for controlling detonation.

3. I would be concerned about aftermarket pistons. Modern cam ground pistons are the result of many hours of development testing to fit the bores properly under operation conditions.

4. Bored out thin wall cylinders may distort increasing blow-by and oil consumption.

5. I'm concerned about cam's also. Valve train dynamics are a big issue for engine life and aftermarket profiles are rarely tested adequately.
 
For more power I would put in the 120R Cam (266E) and use a "good tuner". Good for 30+ more horsepower. Relatively cheap, easy, and proven.

I have concerns with other modifications:

1. I would not alter the MVA heads. They are designed for good performance across all rpm's and throttle openings not just WOT. It's easy to make more peak power but part throttle performance and drive-ability will suffer.

2. I would not raise the compression ratio. Big bore cylinders are always a challenge for controlling detonation.

3. I would be concerned about aftermarket pistons. Modern cam ground pistons are the result of many hours of development testing to fit the bores properly under operation conditions.

4. Bored out thin wall cylinders may distort increasing blow-by and oil consumption.

5. I'm concerned about cam's also. Valve train dynamics are a big issue for engine life and aftermarket profiles are rarely tested adequately.

Man, thats what I love about your answers.... makes me think more logically.... THANKS!
 
I am looking at the TorqDrive Clutch from Rekluse. 55% more torque to the ground with over 50% more surface area on friction plate.

Looks good to me. I may do the same if I have any clutch issues.
 
The high flow exhaust system. Is this the system with the cats. in the mufflers ?
If so....curious why you are running them ?
 
I'm using the H-D exhaust for a number of reasons:
1. This is a dyno proven exhaust with great performance (see attached chart).
2. There is a fully developed tuning calibration file available from H-D for this exhaust. Just run it, or it is good to use as a starting point for use with any tuner.
3. It has ports for both wideband and narrowband O2 sensors.
4. No possible issues with the one year engine warranty.
5. The cats are back in the mufflers where the heat is not affecting rider or passenger.
6. I like this 2-1-2 exhaust for appearance and sound.
7. The H-D pipes have proper ground clearance and don't drag in corners before the foot boards.
8. I've gotten used to not smelling gasoline in the exhaust and I might as well not cause more pollution.
9. I got a 20% MVP Xmas discount.
10. I already have a set of end caps from my slip-on Street Cannons.

SCHF.jpgpipes.jpg
 
Well....the service department just picked up my bike to install the 120ST motor.

Here's a dyno chart I found online from a 120ST tuned a couple weeks ago:

120st Tuned at J&B Performance .jpg
 
Yep those are very nice numbers. Definitely need one those are about where I would like to be.
 
Hulkss- let us know how everything goes. This sounds pretty interesting!
 
Here's another 120ST from the same dyno tuner:

120st Tuned at J&B Performance .jpg

A different dyno on stock 120ST:

120ST stock 259e cams.jpg

Check out this torque curve from a 113" motor with the 259E cams that come in the 120ST. Great torque when combined with high compression (10.5 to 1) pistons. A slightly smaller exhaust on this bike helps too: D&D Fat Cat vs Boarzilla

2012GMR113SE259_zpsb42726fb.jpg
 
A good tune really seems to unleash the 120ST. After mine is run-in I'll be trying the new Power Vision Target Tune from Dynojet. I have a calibration file from Fuel Moto ready to go.

I have found nothing but good reviews on this product, including one from Spazz.

F139435304.jpgpvbundle.jpg
 
The 120ST, is really looking more and more desirable to me. Thanks for sharing HULKSS.
 
Hulkss,

Thanks for the complement on the TT and PV review....

I want to see your numbers when done. I have not dyno'd my 120ST as of yet. I may have an opportunity to have a FREE dyno run, just to see what mine does just with the PV and TT that has been configured by Jamie Long of FM.... I hope I can get it done ( curiosity is killing me! )

One thing I am doing here shortly is changing out the SE perfect fit pushrods to SE adjustables... I have what they call 'normal' valvetrain noise in my 120ST... hasn't got worse or any better, but I want to see if I can calm it down a bit. They tell me its common.....
 
Hulkss,

Thanks for the complement on the TT and PV review....

I want to see your numbers when done. I have not dyno'd my 120ST as of yet. I may have an opportunity to have a FREE dyno run, just to see what mine does just with the PV and TT that has been configured by Jamie Long of FM.... I hope I can get it done ( curiosity is killing me! )

One thing I am doing here shortly is changing out the SE perfect fit pushrods to SE adjustables... I have what they call 'normal' valvetrain noise in my 120ST... hasn't got worse or any better, but I want to see if I can calm it down a bit. They tell me its common.....

Spazz, I am asking this to learn, how did you determine to use or a combination of use, when figuring a adjustable lifter vs. solid and fix length vs. adj push rod? is there a particular power threshold or formula? Thanks.

Danoday
 


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