2015 SGS motor mods

NGOT8R

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Feb 15, 2015
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I had been thinking a lot recently about engine mods for my 2015 SGS and today I decided that it was time to get started. I am planning on having the stock heads and throttle body CNC ported, adding cams and a different exhaust system to maximize the combination. After removing the heads I'm now thinking of installing pistons since I'm already right there. BTW, I noticed something very strange after removing the heads. There is an 1/8" carbon ring at the top of the cylinder walls, which indicates that the pistons are sitting that far down in the holes. Here are a few pics of the tear down.

This will be a very slow process, but I'm sure it'll be well worth the end result. Here's what I've done so far.
 

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Or the 110 Tire Shredder kit, it comes complete, even though I would add the Fueling or C&S cam plate and HV oil pump.
 
I would talk to either Jamie at Fuelmoto or Frank with Drago. Both of their 107 kits will blow away a 110


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The carbon ring you noticed is probably caused by the upper piston ring, which sits about 1/8" below the top of the piston.
 
hulkss and slingshot 383, the HD Stage V kit looks like a pretty decent performer. However, I want to use my stock heads (have a good CNC port job done) and stock jugs (have them bored for the 107). I've had a few people tell me that the SE CNC ported heads are a bit on the conservative side. Having said that, I'm pretty sure I can get the stock heads to outflow the SE heads. I'm leaning heavily towards the FM big bore kit.
 
You're right Grizzly. With the pistons sitting that far down into the cylinders, there certainly shouldn't be any PTV clearance issues. That's a plus IMO because I can take a little extra off of the heads (if necessary) for an extra added bump in compression.
 
Thought the Tire Shredder was Stage IV. Looked at Fuelmoto's and Drago's websites, and it looks like the 107" kits are a real economical deal to break into the 100+ horsepower club.
 
I got the heads and jugs back along with the new pistons, cams, roller rockers and lifters. Here are a few pics.
 

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Finally got around to removing the engine cases from the bike. I also decided to remove the cam bearings while I was at it. I will be shipping the cases out this week to have the Timken bearing installed in the left case and a SE lefty bearing in the right case. Here are a few pics to give those who may be interested, an inside look.
 

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I had been thinking a lot recently about engine mods for my 2015 SGS and today I decided that it was time to get started. I am planning on having the stock heads and throttle body CNC ported, adding cams and a different exhaust system to maximize the combination. After removing the heads I'm now thinking of installing pistons since I'm already right there. BTW, I noticed something very strange after removing the heads. There is an 1/8" carbon ring at the top of the cylinder walls, which indicates that the pistons are sitting that far down in the holes. Here are a few pics of the tear down.

This will be a very slow process, but I'm sure it'll be well worth the end result. Here's what I've done so far.


pistons arnt sitting that low,thats where the top ring stops.on a average,OEM pistons are about .005"-.008" in the hole
 
hulkss and slingshot 383, the HD Stage V kit looks like a pretty decent performer. However, I want to use my stock heads (have a good CNC port job done) and stock jugs (have them bored for the 107). I've had a few people tell me that the SE CNC ported heads are a bit on the conservative side. Having said that, I'm pretty sure I can get the stock heads to outflow the SE heads. I'm leaning heavily towards the FM big bore kit.

CNC porting simply means their ported on a automatic CNC,5 or 6 axis machine and can be duplicated & reproduced quickly.they are still digitized (copied) off hand ported heads.if the original heads were good heads,you`ll end up with a decent head,if it was a crap head,you`ll end up with crap heads.but its still a crap shoot weather the heads will be a good fit & compliment the rest of your build.we do all our porting by hand,our heads got ported differently for the exact build their being used with.just getting "cnc" ported heads dosnt mean they will actually help (or hurt) your build.CNC or not,make sure your builder knows how to match parts to get the result your looking for
 
I hear ya prodrag. I'll be handling the build job myself. The heads were done by a very reputable shop out of Minnesota. About 70-80% of his work is Harley heads, so I'm hopeful that they will exceed my expectations. What kind of ET does your v-twin drag bike run?
 
I hear ya prodrag. I'll be handling the build job myself. The heads were done by a very reputable shop out of Minnesota. About 70-80% of his work is Harley heads, so I'm hopeful that they will exceed my expectations. What kind of ET does your v-twin drag bike run?

we run in the PRO FUEL class,(120",high gear only,carbed runs on nitro),we run low 7.20`s & mid teens,or best pass is 7.12 @ 189 (4.47 @ 169 1/8 mile),this is the 3rd fastest pass in history
 
I would talk to either Jamie at Fuelmoto or Frank with Drago. Both of their 107 kits will blow away a 110

I just installed the Fuel Moto 107 Kit, Level B Heads, polished Throttle and Fueling OEM + Cam Plate and Fueling HP+ Oil pump. I did go with the Wood 9666 cam as opposed to what they recommended after talking to Mr. Woods. I have about 600 miles on it, no dyno yet but loving it so far. I looked at the different dyno charts and the Fuelmoto kit showed was more HP and Torque for the money. I also installed the Variable Pressure Clutch and HD Clutch Spring. I am using the SE Race Tuner.
 
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Bait,

I have the FM 107 kit with Wood 777 cams which will be going into my build. Are you running the stock throttle body and injectors? Did you have your lower end built too? I just sent my cases off to DarkHorse to have them bulletproofed and a Pro Plugged DH Man-O-War crankshaft installed. I'm looking for piece of mind, especially with the amount of coin I have invested in the upper end. It just made sense for me to rework the bottom end and gain the extra added durability.
 
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Still waiting to receive the casings and Man O War crankshaft with the forged h-beam rods and Timken bearing conversion from the shop. In the meantime, I wanted to get some expert opinions on the condition of my factory oil pump, which had 3510 miles on it by the way when I tore the motor apart for the upgrades. Let me explain what you'll be looking for, as the pics may not pick up all of the detail that I want to show. Having said that, the small gerotor that mounts against the cam plate, as well as the cam plate itself and the oil pump housing, all have evidence of scoring on them. I can actually catch my fingernail on them; however, they're not really deep at all. I don't know what is acceptable and what isn't, or whether I can have the faces of the gerotors and the cam plate surface ground to get rid of the scoring? Not sure if there's anything that can be done for the oil pump housing though. I am not opposed to buying a new pump and cam plate, but only want to do so if it's absolutely necessary. Any input here will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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