FP3, The Auto-Tune Process Explained

Spazz

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Feb 22, 2014
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I wanted to put this together to help folks running the FP3 to better understand the Auto-Tune Process, how it works and what you can do to help the FP3 ‘LEARN’ all it can during the session.

The FP3 is a very easy-to-use tuner that connects via Bluetooth directly to your smart phone ( Apple or Android ) with Vance and Hines FP3 App ( IT’S FREE ) found in your App Store and has a DEMO MODE so you can play with it without having the tuner. So if you are contemplating a purchase, or you just want to see what it can do ( learn what it does for you and all the variables, settings. ETC…) , you can download the app and play with it.

OK.. Let’s dive into the Auto-Tune Process:

Whatever base map you are running currently can be used for Auto-tune… stock or canned map that closest matches your setup. If you are unsure, you can call Vance and Hines to get their recommendation on which map you should run.

Like a Dyno, the Auto-tune Process uses RPM’s and Throttle Position ( TPS% ) to learn all it can about your bike and how to tune it. A Dyno-run takes several hours, running through the RPM’s from idle to Wide Open throttle with all varying throttle positions, 0-5% ( idle ) to 100% ( wide open ). This allows the technician to dial in the variables that work BEST for your bike. With the Auto-Tune Process, you do this on while you ride. This is where some riders get confused.

First... Let me explain THE TABLE of the FP3. ( I am android-based, colors may be different from Apple )

***monitor your table often (after each ride ) to get an idea of progress… it helps you understand and then concentrate on certain areas***

It’s a BLANK WHITE CHART ( like a spreadsheet ) TPS% is across the top from 0% to 100% and RPM’s down the left side.

Screenshot_2015-04-25-09-23-02.png


Each BLOCK of the chart represents a specific area of RPM range and TPS%. Once a specific RPM and TPS% is reached or attained, the FP3 will start learning that area ( BLOCK ) on the the chart and turn from white to ORANGE. ORANGE means it’s logging data, but hasn’t fully learned yet… IT NEEDS MORE DATA! Now each time you ‘hit’ that area again, it will continue to learn and make adjustments until it has completed and locked it in…. once that happens, the BLOCK will turn GREEN. How many times must you hit that same range in the BLOCK is unknown... how long you have to stay in that same range within the BLOCK is also unknown….sorry… it’s the truth. What I am saying is the time for each BLOCK to learn varies a lot. Some will learn very quickly… other’s won’t. YOU WILL NEVER GET 100% of the TABLE populated to GREEN…. Just know that. You are trying to get AS MUCH AS YOU CAN by varying your riding style and I will get into that later.

I have had several conversations with many people who didn’t quite understand ( which led me to write this ). After installing the FP3 and starting the Auto-Tune Process, they headed down the freeway. 200 miles later, they think they are done… only to look at their table to find a very small portion of the table has been populated. Knowing what you just read in the previous paragraph should have helped you understand why.

Here is a 50 mile freeway run I did. Leaving my house ( 1 mile to freeway )

Screenshot_2015-04-12-11-54-07.png


Screenshot after I got back... another 50 miles.... very little change... except a few Wide Open Throttle runs were done to initiate more learning of the TABLE ( you will understand this later down this thread, so remember it ) and a little aggressive throttle on the takeoffs to initiate blocks in the lower RPM ranges... compare the two pics and you can see more ORANGE in the Upper-left and Lower-right quadrants of the TABLE.

Screenshot_2015-04-12-16-04-10.png


Cruising down the freeway at 65-75 mph in 6th gear for an extended period of time will populate a small area of blocks on the table since you have maintained time in those areas… slowing down a bit, getting on the throttle to pass… etc…. these small but effective changes in RPM’s and TPS% over and over has enabled the FP3 to LEARN your cruise mode quickly….But what about the rest of the table? The low RPM’s and low TPS% as well as the high RPM’s and high TPS%.... how do you MAKE IT LEARN? That is why it is important to vary your riding style…. I call it ‘FORCING THE TUNE’ to the FP3. You have to make it learn by putting your throttle and RPM’s within those BLOCKS that need to be learned.

***This does take some time and some riders will be moved out of their comfort-zone in riding style, I’m sure of it. ONLY DO WHAT YOU WANT TO DO!!! What I mean is, if you are not comfortable doing certain things, DON’T. I am just trying to explain HOW to get the most out of your FP3 tuner.***

So… we have the center portion of our TABLE populated in GREEN from the freeway run… good! Let’s move onto some slow city driving and stop and go traffic scenarios.

Low RPM’s and low TPS%

Putting around town from light to light using VERY LITTLE throttle and keeping your RPM’s low will start to populate the upper-left region of the CHART. This is the low RPM/lowTPS% portion of the chart. This area of the chart can be time consuming ( and frustrating at times ) since your riding is not a constant speed or Throttle Position… it’s always changing… therefore it takes a little longer for the FP3 to lock in a GREEN BLOCK… be patient…. I know it’s hard.

After another ride with a little in town riding and a little more aggressive riding...

Screenshot_2015-04-19-18-33-52.png


High RPM’s and High TPS%

A freeway onramp…. A back road, not too busy with traffic… etc…. GET ON IT!!!! This is the lower-right portion of the TABLE. This is the adrenalin-junkys’ best scenario!

***Like I said earlier… only do what you are comfortable doing!***

This lower-right portion of the TABLE is an AGGRESSIVE AREA requiring LOTS of throttle and HIGH RPM’s. If you are not used to riding in the 4000+ rpms, take it slow on the throttle… Street Glides LOVE the high RPM’s ( so do I ) and is a completely different and VERY responsive animal all the way to the REV LIMITER.

Your riding style MUST BE aggressive to populate this portion of the TABLE. Time of the day is important here since you don’t want to be in rush-hour traffic. Start on a freeway onramp… rollon your throttle rather quickly all the way to lock and hold it to the Rev Limiter (your bike will sputter)… SHIFT and twist throttle to the lock again…going thru the gears until you lose your comfort-zone. Remember, this has to be done several times ( not in a row, unless you are addicted to speed ) to enable the FP3 to populate the lower-right portion of the table. Onramps and back roads can also be used for50%-75% TPS and varying RPMS above 3500-6000rpms…. You will just have to monitor your table to see what areas you need to concentrate on to MAKE IT LEARN.

Aggressive riding for this portion of the TABLE can be used on the freeway as well…sometimes 3rd, 4th and 5th gear to keep your RPM’s in the upper range ( 4000+ rpm’s) depending on your speed. Again… maintaining and varying RPM’s and Throttle Position in those particular BLOCK areas will be key to quick population.

Even in the downtown/ back road Scenarios, somewhat aggressive riding can aid in the process… but only do what you are comfortable doing. Aggressive take-offs with 50% or more throttle position works.

Now… I don’t want riders to think I am suggesting UNSAFE riding styles… I am just illustrating EXAMPLES of how to achieve the goal of the MOST COMPLETE TUNE you can get from the FP3. You know your areas… what you can do ( or get away with ) BE YOUR OWN JUDGE. Unfortunately, we don’t have the luxury of the Dyno table and SEVERAL HOURS of running the SAME TYPE of styles I explained above… so we take it to the streets and freeways to accomplish this.

One more thing to explain… the difference between APPLY and FINISH

When you use the APPLY command during an Auto-Tune session, you basically apply the learned values to the existing tune and continues the process. This will improve the performance, but has one major flaw…. THE TABLE IS WIPED CLEAN and you cannot monitor your progress from what you applied. It’s not lost, it’s saved and being used, but your TABLE starts clean at that point and you have no idea what you need to concentrate on. I don’t like it… therefore I wait until I am done and FINISH to save the completed Auto-Tune session.

At this point of the Auto-Tune Process, you will have to start TARGETING certain areas more to FORCE THE TUNE to those areas still in ORANGE... REMEMBER... 100% OF THE TABLE IS NOT GOING TO HAPPEN.. the outer edges are more difficult to achieve than those closer inward....especially in the lower RPM ranges and lower TPS% ranges.. do your best and ALWAYS MONITOR YOUR TABLE TO HELP ACHIEVE THE MOST LEARN BLOCKS POSSIBLE BY RIDING WITHIN THOSE RANGES



I hope I have shed some light on the FP3 Auto-Tune Process for some. If you have questions… PLEASE post them here so I can answer them as best I can to aid everyone in learning/understanding the FP3 a little better.
 
I'll be the first to confirm what spazz has stated above WORKS. I was having a hard time filling my tables until he and I chatted about what I needed to do. Thanks again spazz your knowledge and willingness to help others is Truly appreciated by me and everyone on this forum. Awesome write up, you explain it better than the company that sells the product. ...
 
Just read this post entirely with great anticipation....

I was looking forward to attempting the "auto tune" this weekend...

I have been running the "canned" map as setup manually from menu using pipes, air upgrade etc...

Thanks for your efforts Spazz...

Chris
 
Last edited:
Spazz,
That was very helpful. I am planning to pick one up soon. I do have one question. Is the REV LIMITER still set to the factory setting? I think it's about 5200 RPM. or, do you pick what you want it to be, and set it yourself?
 
Spazz,
That was very helpful. I am planning to pick one up soon. I do have one question. Is the REV LIMITER still set to the factory setting? I think it's about 5200 RPM. or, do you pick what you want it to be, and set it yourself?

The Rev Limiter is bumped to 5800rpms on mine... it does it automatically, but you can change it if you so desire.
 
Spazz, Thanks for taking the time to post this tutorial. I'm running a canned map right now on my FP3 and will be doing the auto tune soon. This will help greatly.
I'm sure many here will benefit from this.
Thanks Again,
FB
 
I tried to download the app but it says my phone device is not compatible. I really don't want to go out and buy another phone so if anyone has any ideas let me know, i do have an android from straight talk it should work?
 
After posting my last comment i thought maybe i have to plug in my fp3 first, would this be the case?
 
I tried to download the app but it says my phone device is not compatible. I really don't want to go out and buy another phone so if anyone has any ideas let me know, i do have an android from straight talk it should work?
What phone is it? Just curious...

Sent from my Note4 using Tapatalk
 
All I can say is WOW brother nice write up even I can understand this and will use this when I get a chance soon.

Thanks
 
Do you have to use Bluetooth and smartphone?

Yes and yes.... iPhones or Androids...... easiest way ( VERY easy)

You can use a tablet via Bluetooth as well... not sure if they make software for a PC or MAC though
 
I'll be the first to confirm what spazz has stated above WORKS. I was having a hard time filling my tables until he and I chatted about what I needed to do. Thanks again spazz your knowledge and willingness to help others is Truly appreciated by me and everyone on this forum. Awesome write up, you explain it better than the company that sells the product. ...

Chad,

Thanks for chiming in... and your'e welcome! You are one of quite a few that I have had numerous conversations with to assist with Auto-tuning and glad to help. I only wish I saved all my previous msgs to compile into this, but... you gotta clean out your msgs every so often... oh well... lol.
 
I started the auto tune last weekend, it started out really running bad but got better after a short time. I put on about 150 miles and did one apply, after reading the process I plan on waiting to do any more applies and vary my riding style to get a few more blocks green. Thanks for the great explanation and writeup, Spazz
 
I started the auto tune last weekend, it started out really running bad but got better after a short time. I put on about 150 miles and did one apply, after reading the process I plan on waiting to do any more applies and vary my riding style to get a few more blocks green. Thanks for the great explanation and writeup, Spazz
On startup and cold, it will idle rough and skip a beat now and then... it's common in auto-tune. Now that you applied once, it will run better....and now you can keep running it and monitor the table and hone in those areas that need attention.

BTW.. my inbox was full... I cleared it so you can resend the PM now

Sent from my Note4 using Tapatalk
 
On startup and cold, it will idle rough and skip a beat now and then... it's common in auto-tune. Now that you applied once, it will run better....and now you can keep running it and monitor the table and hone in those areas that need attention.

BTW.. my inbox was full... I cleared it so you can resend the PM now

Sent from my Note4 using Tapatalk
Spazz.......your inbox full??? .......hhmmmmm I would have never guessed that....lmao.
 


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