Installed my 12" Yaffe Monkey Bars

Great input. Hope ya don't mind if I bug ya again if or when I pull the trigger and do the install. Just can't see paying the dealer price on this.
Just hit me up brother... I will do all I can to help
 
Well spazz if you are so Mr help I'll just ride up and you can put them on my ride too lol
 
And the bars you have are pre 2014 correct. One of my brothers has a pair of pre 14 bars brand new we got at a swap meet for $40 May change mine out
 
And the bars you have are pre 2014 correct. One of my brothers has a pair of pre 14 bars brand new we got at a swap meet for $40 May change mine out
Yup... no relief on the clutch res... and they fit just fine..
 
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Hey Spazz. How much were you able to rotate your 12s back toward you? Still tossed between 10" & 12" bars. What's the longest ride you've taken since installing the 12s? Any issues pop up as far as comfort?

I forget to mention one thing on the pullback of the bars....

There is very little rotational play in the controls on the bars because they are indexed for the internal wiring. The further back you go, the controls start to rotate UNDER the bars. I have mine rotated as far forward or AWAY from me as I could up against the index stops... if I left them low, you literally have to reach UNDER to get to the joystick controls... if you catch my drift... meaning your hand position would have to change on your grips to reach them. Where I have mine is just right.. if I pull the bars back any further they will keep going under and hard to reach with a comfortable grip.
 
I gotcha and was wondering about that. Could a guy relieve the index and cable opening with a die grinder or would the controls potentially twist?
 
I gotcha and was wondering about that. Could a guy relieve the index and cable opening with a die grinder or would the controls potentially twist?

Thinking back on the install... I would think you could do this without any issues whatsoever. I most likely would have if I knew about it... just to give a bit more rotational option. Just touch up the raw metal with a bit of paint.. making sure ALL edges are smooth as silk... remember... vibrations are ALWAYS a factor no matter how slight.

The units are actually held in place two-fold... the controls have a set of screws and so do the lever clamps... so once you get them into position, you tighten them both down and they work together.

Once you pull off the controls, you will see the indexing part that inserts into the bars.. protecting the wiring...
 
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Again, great info to have. I read something about zip tying the TGS connector together. Is this only for safety sake and on the old one? I would think the new CVO type this wouldn't be necessary with the connector out of the bars.
 
Again, great info to have. I read something about zip tying the TGS connector together. Is this only for safety sake and on the old one? I would think the new CVO type this wouldn't be necessary with the connector out of the bars.

I believe the CVO style TBW is a complete wiring harness... meaning there is no connections within the bars. The OEM style have two small green conectors mid-harness and they 'can' be disconnected if you pull too hard on the install. What I did was a nice tight wrap of 2 layers of electrical tape over the connectors to ensure I didn't unplug them during install.

Keeping all this in mind... once you install the bars and all the wiring... BEFORE you button everything back up... make SURE EVERYTHING WORKS. All controls on BOTH hand controls and the TBW is working properly. I had a brother do his own install and never checked before final assembly... he had pulled too hard and TBW came undone... complete teardown was necessary on throttle side.
 
That's what I figured. I plan to buy the CVO set up anyway. I may also go with heated grips. Then I will need to get the schematic out and look for the connectors. I believe they are all ready in the harness.
 
Hey Spazz,
Did you have to pull the derby cover and adjust the clutch when you changed the cable or did you simply adjust the slack out of the lever to the 1/8" freeplay?
 
No clutch cables on a 14... they are hydraulic... no adjustments
 
did you take throttle wire and control wires through at the same time or one at a time?
 
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did you take throttle wire and control wires through at the same time or one at a time?

same time.... easier for me at the time....

And welcome from Reno, NV!!! Go introduce yourself in the new members area....
 
Ok thanks ,I receive my bars tomorrow. Already have the old ones off. Couldn't believe how easy it was to get the fairing off. Thanks again for your information. Your post is what pushed me to try it myself. The dealer near me wanted 12 hrs labor at $110.00 an hr. They said 10 hrs but 2 extra for the Yaffe bars. Don't think so!
 
Ok thanks ,I receive my bars tomorrow. Already have the old ones off. Couldn't believe how easy it was to get the fairing off. Thanks again for your information. Your post is what pushed me to try it myself. The dealer near me wanted 12 hrs labor at $110.00 an hr. They said 10 hrs but 2 extra for the Yaffe bars. Don't think so!
Yeah... rediculous charges... lol... glad to help...

Sent from my Note4 using Tapatalk
 
ok I have a few questions and I hope Im not repeating anything that has already been answered. I have a '13 SG and thinking of installing the 12in bars. I understand I need to buy a wire extension kit and that spazz used a 8 inch but when I look online I see that there are different number amounts of wires in some of the kits. how many wires do I need to extend and also does anyone know if I need to replace the throttle,clutch and break cable lines or do they reach with the 12 in ?
thanks

nice thread spazz, good info
 
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