OK, since you asked: Man this is really good info! I have been researching the Custom Dynamics stuff and the cost of going total LED on my 2015 FLHXS. From this thread, I learned of the OLEEP 8700 Black Harley Daymaker CREE LED, and ordered it on Amazon for $124, shipped. I really hope this lite works. I Like the black looks of it as it will play well with my black denim. I would like some more info on these LEDS such as:
• Are they truly plug & play? Truly: take old light out, add a little electronic grease to the spade plugs, plug in and install new...
• Does this lamp model require ANYTHING ELSE? Adapter ring, trim ring, wiring harness adaptor, etc.?
• Does the lamp have to be adjusted (vertically, horizontally): I'm thinking (hoping), that the new lamp sits in the existing install ring. This is important as I think one of the very first steps would be to sit on the bike with the OEM lamp in, turn it on and visually observe where the lamp’s light spray (low/high beams) is showing
• How long have you used this light? I researched some of the LED replacement light bulbs as an alternative, and have read of some of them dying in as little as a month. Pure junk-not an option. BTW, I ride with my high beams on 75% of the time.
WHAT DID I DO TO MY GLIDE TODAY?
• 10,494 Miles: I replaced the OEM clutch diaphragm spring with an SE Heavy Duty Spring, PN: 37951-98, $34.12 @ HD Dealer. I haven’t had recent clutch issues, just in conversation with a guy I had worked with, whom builds HD high performance motors, told me that the best thing you could do for the HD clutch was to install a heavier duty spring. I grabbed my service manual and the primary gasket (HD PN 34901-07, ordered from Dennis Kirk, PN 264035/James Gasket, $16.38), and went to task. Not as scary as when I was researching on how to do the work. One thing I noticed when I had the primary open was that the primary chain seemed to be fairly slack. I researched on how to check/confirm tension, and it is somewhat confusing. I believe the max amount of play is .500 - .650- in. Visually, the top of the chain was sagging on it’s own and I could move the chain up/down to ¾” or so. I tightened the chain shoe just a bit to add tension and rechecked to ensure it was within tolerance. Replaced primary and added 36 ounces of Red Line V-Twin Primary Oil. I did not change the derby cover gasket. I had ordered one from Dennis Kirk for $7 but when I received it, it would not work for this particular derby cover (HD ‘Motor Co.’ style derby cover).
• Started the auto-tune on the Vance and Hines FP3. I installed the FP3 @ 4,350 miles so I have had the bike to this same tune for over 6,000 miles. Absolutely Love It! Just figuring since it winter and our rides are getting washed out, I’m bored, reading too much on this blog…. Spazz’s blog on the FP3 autotune process is a MUST READ!!!
http://streetglide.com/showthread.p...cess-Explained&highlight=Vance+Hines+autotune. I’m just going to see if there is anything else in the little Vance & Hines black box that I can juice out of it- stay tuned on this one.
• Updated pricing list for ‘Winter Mods’. Dare I say, ‘Dream package’. So I am looking at doing some serious cash damage in the near (hopefully) future. Compiling and documenting (spreadsheet), this list and researching parts, pieces and components, quality, pricing, install, etc., is firmly planting a serious step in the direction of ‘Why I NEED to spend > $5,000 on this bike). So I’m looking at doing a front end performance and blackout modification. Research revealed:
o Parts (All HD that are needed/wanted): Surdyke= $2,724.52, HD= $3,344.05
o Going with Arlen Ness Hot Legs for Touring, Smooth Black, PN 40-513 with HD Gloss Black Cowbells
o KlocWerks Wrap Fender: OEM Black Denim paint w/OEM Red pinstripe. Finding artists that are truly good and have demonstrated success working with the denim paints is still a struggle (in my circle anyway). Got a $650 quote from a local, but then stumbled across the KlocWerks @ $465 with a fit/finish guarantee. Replacing the OEM fender w/ an OEM paint scheme wrap fender is a HUGE visual effect, so this has to be done exactly right!
o Progressive Monotube Cartridges, lower front 1”. These seem to be the logical choice for performance/cost measures. Research has indicated that these will dramatically improve ride dynamics- would like to hear from anyone using these in the Rushmore Touring bikes.
o Installing Heated Hand Grips, Black Rubber HD PN: 56100034- I peeked at a Christmas gift.
o LED Light Group- headlight mentioned above. This research on lighting took me to a very dark place- concerning cost. Nearly $1,000 WOW, HOLY S***! And that’s after purchasing the Headlamp for $124! The cost is due to going from the existing chrome to black, which means $506 for a new rear light bar and front brackets, of which the brackets are sold separately from the turn signals. I’m looking at Custom Dynamics for the rear, read plasma bars (Item TFC3), that I will want to have as run/brake/turn, and also for the Tri-Bar Dual Intensity LED Rear Fender Tip, PN GEN-TRI-FT-3. This comes with a smoke lens cover so will look cool at the base of the rear fender. I will install of these parts myself.
o Arlen Ness Flow Dash, Gloss Black, PN 04-112. I’m also looking for a flush look/pop-up style fuel lid. This dash will add a lot towards a low- slung profile. I already have a black, powder coated dash and fuel door which looks cool, but the AN achieves a lower profile- so it may be for sale in the future.
o Danny Gray Custom Seat w/Airhawk Insert. I met with the Airhawk rep this summer in Sturgis and she showed me the Danny Gray model that they had come out with for the rushmores. I will not ride without my Airhawk. I paid $89 on Amazon and my ass has sat in it for close to 11,000 miles. I will never consider any seat that does not include an Airhawk pad system. Yeah, it’s that good!
o Changing Brake Pads. I’m close to 50%, so since I’m down there… I did find some EBC Sintered Brake Pads (PN 996730) for $65. I have had no problems with the OEMS, they don’t kick much brake dust at all, and they have performed decently. I’m just always in search of better/cheaper. Anybody using pads other than OEM?
o KlocWerks 8” Windscreen, Black. I use a 4.5” HD Windsplitter, smoked now, at 6’-1”, I’m just trying to see if I can get a little less buffeting. Also, this screen appears to be black, not smoked, so I think I can pull off a low profile look even though the screen is higher. I really want performance over looks, but damn! The Looks….
o The rest of the stuff includes: Black engine guard & adjustable highway pegs, ignition switch cover, black rider footboard pans, saddlebag latch levers, stealth Tour-Pac luggage rack (I use a King Tour-Pak 10% of the time), HD Edge Cut: Rear brake lever & pedal, heel/toe shifter, clutch & brake levers
• Options I am toying with: Installing some 14” black chubby apes- need to decide soon because install would be done at the same time as the front end mod. I need to know if 14” will require ANY cable changes- if so, I’m out (huge cost difference). I believe I read where 12” would fit but due to the riding position, the rearview mirrors are very difficult to see out of- not sure I want to put myself in that position and not wild about installing mirrors on the bars (low profile, remember?). Additionally, I am looking for bars where the hand control electronics are routed through the bars for a cleaner look.
Finally, some of the biggest decisions are:
1. Money--- One year after my new bike purchase, I am into additions for about $10,000. No longer do the mod decisions include ‘re-sale value’. This is about MY RIDE!!! Another $5k is going to be painful for me, for sure, but how do I explain the cost of my addiction to my wife (HD Addiction Hotline, How may I help you?). Serious
2. Will I do the work myself? I do have the tools, shop manual and garage. Do I have the patience? Realistically, I’m estimating a DIY like this will take ME 10 hours labor, start to finish. I say ME because like many of YOU, I’m meticulous and if I have a part off of the bike, I’m going to make sure it goes back in clean and properly torqued. That’s the confident side. The reality side says that I am going to be performing surgery on some VERY critical elements for safe operation: throttle, steering, suspension, braking, electrical. I think I could anticipate the bike being down for a couple of weekends and of course I also anticipate that those will be this NorCal winter’s only dry and 73 degree weekends- you see why I mentioned the patience? Stratospherically, I could estimate labor cost for this mod to be over $1,000 at my HD shop- That’s if they even install the off- brand stuff. I haven’t met with my local Indie, but the discussion concerning cost, timing and knowledge performing these services could have a direct influence on my decision. He could probably get a lot of the non- HD parts through his shop as well at a reduced cost (I bought my V&H Power Duals from his Shop). We will have to see but I would wager his labor to end up in the $400 range. It would be nice to drop the bike off, and pick it up completed and ready to tour.
You guys do this stuff all of the time and I would enjoy hearing from you concerning this.
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