V&H Fuelpak FP3

[Jones R Us]

Spazz. I just installed my v&h dresser duels and cfr mufflers with the fp3 pack. I started with the auto tune but a red light blinked on the gauges and the bike ran ruff. They don't have on the list cfr. So I set it up with twin slacker rounds it runs good but a lot of back pressure, no back fire.


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[wildchld]

I don't have the FP3, have a PV but autotune runs rough at first and first start of the day. Just have to get past it then you should be good.

 

[Spazz]

Spazz. I just installed my v&h dresser duels and cfr mufflers with the fp3 pack. I started with the auto tune but a red light blinked on the gauges and the bike ran ruff. They don't have on the list cfr. So I set it up with twin slacker rounds it runs good but a lot of back pressure, no back fire.


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Your best bet is to contact V/H as ask them what to start with as a base map for autotuning. I believe the monster rounds was what somebody here posted when they contacted V/H about CFR's....

The sled will run rough at first... yes... that is normal for the auto-tune process. As the learning process progresses, V/H recommends 'APPLYing' the populated table every so often.. like and hour of cruising.. check your table and APPLY. Then change your riding to stop and go city for an hour... and APPLY. What this does ( according to V/H ) is it applies the learned values to the base map and continues to learn.... this is like the fine-tuning process. The only downside is that the table returns to a blank canvas each time to APPLY the tune. IF you wait for a few hundred miles, you can check your table often and see what blocks have been learned and what has not. If you want to force an area that is not learned, you can use the TPS% and RPM of the unlearned area to make it learn. So if you have a high RPM range and High TPS% that you want learned... you can monitor the RPM and TPS% to force it to learn.. you may have to hit this range a few times to make it learn because it takes a few times in that area for the FP3 to populate that block with good data and not just a single shot.

After you apply a tune that has about 30-40% ... the bike will run smoother since you applied the learned values.

Once you are happy with the tune... you FINISH it instead of applying it. Then all the learned values are saved as your primary map.

 

[Jones R Us]

Cool. What about putting it on a dyno. You think that might speed up the process.


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[Spazz]

Cool. What about putting it on a dyno. You think that might speed up the process.


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IF you can find a tech to dyno your sled with the FP3.... most techs have a preferred tuner(s) that they like to use. If the tech knows the FP3, he can manually populate the table and fine-tune.

The autotune could be done on the dyno.... but again... you can do it on the street and save a couple hundred bucks ( unless you know somebody). You have to realize that the autotuning process take a bit.. the blocks of the table must be hit a few times to be learned... you will not hit EVERY block.. when I did mine... 400+ miles and had 85% populated, and ran great. Did I have to go that long? probably not... but I just wanted to make certain I did all I could do.

 

[Jones R Us]

Ok thanks.


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[Mojo]

Spazz is our official FP3 man!

 

[Korazu]

I'm kind of on the fence about purchasing the FP3 as I'd like to do it myself but don't know enough about it and my brain says to just take it to Harley to dial in.. but I'm afraid for my wallet if I do so. I have my HD SE AC and V&H Pro Pipe coming and don't want to have issues.

However Fuel Moto has it for 331, where others are 350+.

 

[14 FLHX]

Remember HD still has to be EPA compliant, so there is some hp left on the table.

I have sat back and watched and read alot of forums and im choosing power vision for my flhx.

 

[Mojo]

Korazu- here are 2 options of the many available:
If you have it dyno'd, you still have to purchase a tuner. That's why the FP3 is so attractive to folks. You put it on then download closest map that matches your setup and either leave it alone if it runs OK or put it into Autotune and it does the rest as you ride. After it finishes, you upload the map it created to your ECM . . . done!
The lesser expensive option would be the Nightrider VIED.

 

[Korazu]

Remember HD still has to be EPA compliant, so there is some hp left on the table.

I have sat back and watched and read alot of forums and im choosing power vision for my flhx.

Korazu- here are 2 options of the many available:
If you have it dyno'd, you still have to purchase a tuner. That's why the FP3 is so attractive to folks. You put it on then download closest map that matches your setup and either leave it alone if it runs OK or put it into Autotune and it does the rest as you ride. After it finishes, you upload the map it created to your ECM . . . done!
The lesser expensive option would be the Nightrider VIED.

Thanks 14 FLHX and Mojo. After thinking about it more and the cost savings of having the FP3, I went ahead and purchased it this morning. Thanks again for the insight.

 

[14 FLHX]

You will love the fp3, lots of happy customers.

 

[Spazz]

You will love the fp3, lots of happy customers.

He's right.... I love mine

 

[Mojo]

Korazu- You'll want to follow Spazz's thread on the FP3, he put a lot of good info up about how it works etc. on this forum.

 

[Jones R Us]

I am happy with my set up. Cfr mufflers,v&h dresser duels and fp3, stage one S E air filter


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[somtron]

Spazz do you have to download a map or can you just start with the autotune?

Your best bet is to contact V/H as ask them what to start with as a base map for autotuning. I believe the monster rounds was what somebody here posted when they contacted V/H about CFR's....

The sled will run rough at first... yes... that is normal for the auto-tune process. As the learning process progresses, V/H recommends 'APPLYing' the populated table every so often.. like and hour of cruising.. check your table and APPLY. Then change your riding to stop and go city for an hour... and APPLY. What this does ( according to V/H ) is it applies the learned values to the base map and continues to learn.... this is like the fine-tuning process. The only downside is that the table returns to a blank canvas each time to APPLY the tune. IF you wait for a few hundred miles, you can check your table often and see what blocks have been learned and what has not. If you want to force an area that is not learned, you can use the TPS% and RPM of the unlearned area to make it learn. So if you have a high RPM range and High TPS% that you want learned... you can monitor the RPM and TPS% to force it to learn.. you may have to hit this range a few times to make it learn because it takes a few times in that area for the FP3 to populate that block with good data and not just a single shot.

After you apply a tune that has about 30-40% ... the bike will run smoother since you applied the learned values.

Once you are happy with the tune... you FINISH it instead of applying it. Then all the learned values are saved as your primary map.

 

[Jones R Us]

Is it ok that a red blinking light is on the speedo, also it keeps saying to check that the power is not on or off does this make since


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[Spazz]

I never had this issue.... im not sure. I would ensure that the FP3 connector is FULLY seated in the plug..

 

[Mojo]

JonesRus- a blinking red light on my dial indicates the Security system is functioning.

 

[Jones R Us]

I don't have security.


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