FP3, The Auto-Tune Process Explained

I'm sorry for my English, but what do you mean by "riding the brake"?

Inviato dal mio W1032H2_F utilizzando Tapatalk
 
Applying brake pressure to create extra load on the. It helps bring rpms down but forces you to increase throttle position to keep bike from stalling there by allowing the FP3 to learn areas that otherwise it probably wouldn't under normal riding conditions.

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You drive quite aggressively on the short distance... ;)

Inviato dal mio W1032H2_F utilizzando Tapatalk

Who me? LOL
I love the increased acceleration the bike now has since the mods. Amazing what a set of pipes and air cleaner can do.
 
Latest chart is starting to fill in nicely. I can definitely see the advantages of not apply the changes so you can track the progress. Thanks Spazz!
Screenshot_2016-07-21-11-20-29.png
 
Applying brake pressure to create extra load on the. It helps bring rpms down but forces you to increase throttle position to keep bike from stalling there by allowing the FP3 to learn areas that otherwise it probably wouldn't under normal riding conditions.

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Dont' you think that doing this could damage braking pads and discs?
 
Well it's not something you would do for any extended period of time. But the pads and discs are designed to withstand some extreme temperatures and abuse.

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Dont' you think that doing this could damage braking pads and discs?

As stated above... you're not holding them in and riding for extended periods... just to maintain a certain rpm and certain TP for a short time... then let up.... then do it again.... until you get that cell to learn....
you are not going to damage the discs or the pads....
 
Have patience and keep going with this tune you have a ways to go still but it's looking good so far. And yes Spazz talked me through mine also.
 
Help me understand the AT a little more. I have been using the V&H map for my set up which is Monster Rounds and SE A/C. No other performance mods. It's good. If I AT, I use this map or my base map from stock? Also, how well or bad does the bike run during the process? If I am using my V&H map, I have to think it would run the same, correct? And then when I finalize the AT map, it should ride better?
 
I am just learning this stuff myself but I can answer a couple of your questions from my limited experience.
When you enter Auto Tune select the Map you want to fine tune. In my case was the V&H Big Radius 2:2 Map.
Auto Tune will make a copy of that Map keeping your original in another slot.
While in Auto Tune my bike still runs great but the gas mileage drops quite a bit.
You have two options concerning your AT Map. You can apply the learned changes as you go. This basically updates the Map your are tuning but keeps you in Auto Tune so future updates can be made. The other option is to finalize which "completes" your AT Map and exits the Auto Tune Function. You will then be running on your new Map.
Spazz, please correct my if I got in over my head here.
 
Here is my latest graph. Really starting to fill in.
Spazz, should I continue this process until I don't see any more changes and then finalize?
Screenshot_2016-07-23-15-52-51.png
 
Here is my latest graph. Really starting to fill in.
Spazz, should I continue this process until I don't see any more changes and then finalize?
Screenshot_2016-07-23-15-52-51.png
It's lookin good... try to target a few more areas...

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Purely hypothetical here, but...

Couldn't this also be achieved by jacking the bike up and being able to constantly monitor the grid?
 
Purely hypothetical here, but...

Couldn't this also be achieved by jacking the bike up and being able to constantly monitor the grid?

I don't think it will work. Doesn't it need a load to adjust to? In other words it needs resistance force for the engine to work against? I think the roller on the dyno gives a resistance force.
 
I don't think it will work. Doesn't it need a load to adjust to? In other words it needs resistance force for the engine to work against? I think the roller on the dyno gives a resistance force.
You're correct. Dynos have resistance just as if the vehicle or bike was on the road. And yes you have to have that resistance in order to properly tune the engine. It must be under load.


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do you think we could ask V&H to have the FP3 show numbers on table cells in autotune? it'd be a huge help in autotuning... I think the only similar unit that does so is the newest commander right?

Inviato dal mio HUAWEI NXT-L29 utilizzando Tapatalk
 
do you think we could ask V&H to have the FP3 show numbers on table cells in autotune? it'd be a huge help in autotuning... I think the only similar unit that does so is the newest commander right?

Inviato dal mio HUAWEI NXT-L29 utilizzando Tapatalk
The Power Vision does the numbered hits of a cell... it's magic number is 7 when it turns green... I have yet to find a number that is definitive for the AT learning curve on the fp3

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yes I was referring to the new PV not the commander... my bad

Inviato dal mio HUAWEI NXT-L29 utilizzando Tapatalk
 
great post helped a lot one question while putting down the miles auto tuning do I have to have phone connected for fp3 to record data just wondering like to listen to pandora phone can't do two things at once tks
 
No... once in AT, the phone isn't needed. You are fine for your jams

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