So Spazz, if I downloaded the "canned app" for my exhaust/air set up when I bought the FP3. Will the bike continue to use those parameters when I go to auto tune or does it go back to the default/stock ones until I hit apply or finish....thx for sharing your wisdom.
FP3, The Auto-Tune Process Explained
- Thread starter Spazz
- Start date
Whichever map you have flashed to the ECM will be used for the the Autotune session. Using the closest or exact match of components you have to the canned map will be optimal for running an autotune session.
Once you have completed the session and FINISH the tune, you will be prompted via the app on your phone on what to do to complete the process.
Question for the experts.
What is the result of changing the automatic exhaust valve settings?
I am not really sure what this valve does apart from making a clattering noise when i start up!
Thanks in advance
What is the result of changing the automatic exhaust valve settings?
I am not really sure what this valve does apart from making a clattering noise when i start up!
Thanks in advance
Spazz,
I found this post especially informative and have two questions.
1. Did you ever get/post the pre and post Autotune Dyno results?
2. When I apply a set of learned data and then ride some more the same areas on the chart seem to fill back in with green. I am assuming that the previous data was stored as stated in the article but aren't these new green boxes in the same areas going to override what I already put in? I guess basically I am asking if it is relearning the same data in the new charts?
I found this post especially informative and have two questions.
1. Did you ever get/post the pre and post Autotune Dyno results?
2. When I apply a set of learned data and then ride some more the same areas on the chart seem to fill back in with green. I am assuming that the previous data was stored as stated in the article but aren't these new green boxes in the same areas going to override what I already put in? I guess basically I am asking if it is relearning the same data in the new charts?
There are no pre and post results to visually display... only seat of the pants dyno...
Take screenshots of your tables as you apply... this will give you a visual refernce to areas already completed... and let you know the areas you need to work on and force the tune in those areas by aquiring the rpms/throttle positions ib those areas. The areas already learned are just fine tuning when it goes back thru them.
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Ah yes ….. the old we will void your warranty issue ……
I guess what drives me nuts is ….. they push you to buy the extended warranty AND ALSO encourage you to perform performance updates on your bike. Then, if there are issues, possibly void your warranty because of said performance updates.
The understanding I have from the Service Department Manager at the dealer I purchased my bike at is that if there are potential warranty issues that must be addressed by the mother ship (HD) ….. they would install the OEM parts (I’d have to pick up the labor costs of course) and bring the bike back to original stock and things would go forward from there (whatever that means) …. wink wink
Now, I don’t plan on making any major “engine enhancements” to my bike other than changing out the headers, mufflers, and A/C. But from what I can tell this could void the warranty even if they are HD parts (unless you had these updates installed at purchase).
From what I understand, the HO 103 engine is designed as is ….. ANY mods to increase performance outside of this design and specification will void the warranty.
I already installed an FP3 and mapped for the stock system. This seems to be working rather well. And, I guess, I have already voided my warranty?????
I was thinking of attempting the auto tune with the FP3 but I will wait until after I have the exhaust and A/C swapped out and then do the auto tune.
I guess what drives me nuts is ….. they push you to buy the extended warranty AND ALSO encourage you to perform performance updates on your bike. Then, if there are issues, possibly void your warranty because of said performance updates.
The understanding I have from the Service Department Manager at the dealer I purchased my bike at is that if there are potential warranty issues that must be addressed by the mother ship (HD) ….. they would install the OEM parts (I’d have to pick up the labor costs of course) and bring the bike back to original stock and things would go forward from there (whatever that means) …. wink wink
Now, I don’t plan on making any major “engine enhancements” to my bike other than changing out the headers, mufflers, and A/C. But from what I can tell this could void the warranty even if they are HD parts (unless you had these updates installed at purchase).
From what I understand, the HO 103 engine is designed as is ….. ANY mods to increase performance outside of this design and specification will void the warranty.
I already installed an FP3 and mapped for the stock system. This seems to be working rather well. And, I guess, I have already voided my warranty?????
I was thinking of attempting the auto tune with the FP3 but I will wait until after I have the exhaust and A/C swapped out and then do the auto tune.
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Anything you add to your bike must be proven to be the cause of potential damage if warranty comes into play. If you have the dealership install your pipe and tuner... is it under warranty? If you install the same tuner and pipe... WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE!?!!? I HATE DEALERS THAT SO THIS TO CUSTOMERS!
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Called Vance & Hines to ask about the Big Radius 2:2 pipes I bought and also discussed the Auto Tune feature on the FP3. Turns out I had downloaded the map for Big Radius 2:2 pipes with no baffle, when I actually have the standard baffle.
He was adamant that the V&H map provided for the Big Radius 2:2 with Hi flow air intake was the best I could get. His reasoning was that they put these combinations together and dyno tune the bikes to peak HP and Torque then save the map.
I asked why then would the auto tune feature be giving me green boxes over the wide spectrum of the graph? He said that it could be due to my selection of the no baffle map and that I needed to use their map and run at least 3 tank fulls of gasoline so the FP3 map can dial itself in to my particular bike.
So I went and downloaded the correct map and have been running on that. I have to admit that it runs great with a lot of get up and go but I still have this hankering to play with the auto tune feature. Since it doesn't change the original map I select I would think I have nothing to lose and everything to gain. Is this wrong thinking on my part?
He was adamant that the V&H map provided for the Big Radius 2:2 with Hi flow air intake was the best I could get. His reasoning was that they put these combinations together and dyno tune the bikes to peak HP and Torque then save the map.
I asked why then would the auto tune feature be giving me green boxes over the wide spectrum of the graph? He said that it could be due to my selection of the no baffle map and that I needed to use their map and run at least 3 tank fulls of gasoline so the FP3 map can dial itself in to my particular bike.
So I went and downloaded the correct map and have been running on that. I have to admit that it runs great with a lot of get up and go but I still have this hankering to play with the auto tune feature. Since it doesn't change the original map I select I would think I have nothing to lose and everything to gain. Is this wrong thinking on my part?
Nope... geographical location (ambient air, elevation etc) will affect any tune. I ran AT to fine tune my scoot to my location. The base maps are a great starting point and most run great with them... but... you may gain a bit more with AT. If it doesn't run better, reflash the base map... nothing lost.
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I read all the thread till now before posting. I read that a lot of guys are trying to make the fp3 learn and trying to get as much greenies as possible. MHO is that the point here is completely different. Load a canned map as close as possible to your system, run it, then AT will help you refine the map to get the most out of your bike per your riding style, the environment and YOUR FEELING. if you never go in the highest rpm you won't need to stress yourself and the bike to get some green block you'll never (or rarely) use afterwards. I post a picture of my AT because I would like to hear from Spazz his thoughts
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Rev...
That is a good start to your AT. You have to look at your AT session a bit different than your riding style. Look at how a tune is performed on a dyno.... full rollons and full decel in various gears and much more. This gives the ecm optimum data for ANY style. Say you tune it to how you ride it... NOW... then you start getting a bit more aggressive for whatever reason... you will not have sufficient data in those areas that the bike has NEVER learned. Maybe you have to get aggressive to move out of a potentially dangerous situation so you don't get hit... as an example. If you NEVER pinned the throttle to get those blocks to populate in that particular rpm/TP range, you can't predict if your bike with stumble, hit a flat spot or how it will react, you can't know.... it NEVER learned those areas you just put it into.
I stated in the very beginning of this thread... Do WHAT YOU FEEL COMFORTABLE WITH... and do it SAFELY. The reason you push outside your comfort zone for the tune is for those situations that may deem it necessary for YOU to be pushed into that zone for whatever reason.
If the data has never been collected in those areas, you cannot predict if the bike will run properly in those areas. Some of us have experienced a 'flat spot' or hesitation within a certain tune within a certain rpm range or TP.... I want to make sure that doesn't happen when I need it.... so when I tune... I try to get as much of the table populated to ensure an efficient tune will make my scoot run at its best... whatever rpm range and throttle position I have to be in.
Sure... I may not run wide open throttle in 4th, 5th and 6th gear all the time ( well... lol!) but if and when I do, I want to know that my bike has the proper data to keep it running at its optimum with proper timing and air/fuel ratios etc.....
I run a Power Vision now on my 15RGS120ST.... I started with a canned map from Fuel Moto. The AT process is much the same as I explained in this thread, however, you have the ability to datalog and WATCH the table populate and it COUNTS the number of hits in each cell. The 'magic number' on the PV to learn is 7 hits to lock in data. As you ride from city to freeway, you can visually watch to various areas of the table populate and learn due to the change in speed and throttle usage. It'ss pretty cool
That is a good start to your AT. You have to look at your AT session a bit different than your riding style. Look at how a tune is performed on a dyno.... full rollons and full decel in various gears and much more. This gives the ecm optimum data for ANY style. Say you tune it to how you ride it... NOW... then you start getting a bit more aggressive for whatever reason... you will not have sufficient data in those areas that the bike has NEVER learned. Maybe you have to get aggressive to move out of a potentially dangerous situation so you don't get hit... as an example. If you NEVER pinned the throttle to get those blocks to populate in that particular rpm/TP range, you can't predict if your bike with stumble, hit a flat spot or how it will react, you can't know.... it NEVER learned those areas you just put it into.
I stated in the very beginning of this thread... Do WHAT YOU FEEL COMFORTABLE WITH... and do it SAFELY. The reason you push outside your comfort zone for the tune is for those situations that may deem it necessary for YOU to be pushed into that zone for whatever reason.
If the data has never been collected in those areas, you cannot predict if the bike will run properly in those areas. Some of us have experienced a 'flat spot' or hesitation within a certain tune within a certain rpm range or TP.... I want to make sure that doesn't happen when I need it.... so when I tune... I try to get as much of the table populated to ensure an efficient tune will make my scoot run at its best... whatever rpm range and throttle position I have to be in.
Sure... I may not run wide open throttle in 4th, 5th and 6th gear all the time ( well... lol!) but if and when I do, I want to know that my bike has the proper data to keep it running at its optimum with proper timing and air/fuel ratios etc.....
I run a Power Vision now on my 15RGS120ST.... I started with a canned map from Fuel Moto. The AT process is much the same as I explained in this thread, however, you have the ability to datalog and WATCH the table populate and it COUNTS the number of hits in each cell. The 'magic number' on the PV to learn is 7 hits to lock in data. As you ride from city to freeway, you can visually watch to various areas of the table populate and learn due to the change in speed and throttle usage. It'ss pretty cool
Started my Autotune on the Big Radius 2:2 map.
This after an hour long ride with my wife on board.
I didn't apply this time and going to follow the recommendation to fill the graph as much as possible first. I'll be riding a couple of hours solo on Tuesday through some winding mountain roads with some Interstate in between.
I'll post an updated screenshot after that ride.
This after an hour long ride with my wife on board.
I didn't apply this time and going to follow the recommendation to fill the graph as much as possible first. I'll be riding a couple of hours solo on Tuesday through some winding mountain roads with some Interstate in between.
I'll post an updated screenshot after that ride.
Yep... and from 2000 rpms and up at the 25%-80% range. Sometimes it takes a while to dial in certain areas since you can't maintain tps and rpms for extended times... riding the brake a bit in those areas can assist... I did this with my Power Vision and worked like a charm.
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