FP3, The Auto-Tune Process Explained

Does anyone else have an issue with the iPhone and FP3 not communicating while plugged into the infotainment system?

I was hoping to keep the phone charged and awake while auto tuning without having to change the phones sleep setting.
Is the issue caused from to many connections from the bike? IE bluetooth to the FP3, bluetooth to the infotainment system, and the USB infotainment connection?
I assumed the usb connection would cancel the bluetooth connection to the radio, am i wrong?
Thanks guys.
 
Spazz,

What kind of fuel mileage are you seeing with any of your "optimum" tunes?

When I still had my 14SGS I was up around 40-42 with the FP3.... my 15RGS 120ST gets 40 mpg all day long on the average.
 
Ugh, I couldn't wait! I had to "apply" after 3 rides and only a couple hundred miles lol
It runs much better, now I'm going to work on a new table and do better
 
Spazz,

Thanks for the tip. Was able to get a good Autotune flashed. But a question. I'm running a stock decatted head pipe. Do you believe in the "Cross Talk" phenomena when running decatted stock pipes & placement of the O2 sensors. Wonder if I should put stock pipe with cat back on and get a better tune? Your opinion?
 
If anything... I would get the jackpot 2-1-2 headpipe or V/H powerduals... both are great and provide better performance than a decat stocker. jackpot used stock heatshields and a bit cheaper

Sent from Note4 via TapaTalk
 
Question for everyone? I'm looking at pipes and trying to decide between chrome and black. I've been told not toget black because the finish is just basically painted on and will rust out much faster than the chrome? I'm going between v&h and screaming eagle. Any suggestions or experience with this. Thanks

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
 
I just got around to doing my stage 1 , Rush Big Louies ( came with the bike) ,De-cat head pipe, S&S air cleaner , FP3. V&H told me to use the V&H power duals / high output muffler map for this combination.

My local dealer dyno guy told me the de-cat pipes do vary well, said he see's a small increase over them using the V&H power duals , 2-4 hp / 3-5 ftlbs torque , so yes they do get more performance but maybe not as much as you might think , not $400 or $500 worth to me at this time.

As far as the O2 sensors , I don't care for the stock placement of the narrow band sensors vs where wide bands are mounted, and narrow bands are limited in what they can monitor anyway.

I noticed an immediate difference just running the canned map really happy so far. I'm wondering if you can get your lower RPM populated faster by running the throttle up and down progressively while idling in the drive way ?

As I understand it orange cells mean the front cylinder is learned and green is both are learned = completed cell.

The thought crossed my mind about running a tune session on my bike jack , ya what could go wrong . . . . no I'm not doing it but the theory is interesting.

My progress after my first 90 miles in Auto-tune ,with the season just starting up, I forgot how fast and smoothly shes hits triple digits ;)
 

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After 910 miles, running the FP3 with settings on V&H Big Radius as my basemap for Auto-Tune, in actuality: Freedom Performance Sharp Curve Radius, SE Agitator cleaner, and FP3, this was what I ended up with.

For some reason, piece kept deleting cells, and I just went with what I figured was going to be the best on Auto-Tune. Plan to run it again this summer on 2k mile trip.

3-6 2.jpg3-15.jpg3-25.jpg4-10.jpg
 
Yes can get frustrating when the blocks disappear but it's still learning is all we can figure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Tom
 
Performance has been nothing but outstanding. Just so y'all know. Have a few hundred miles planned tomorrow and a couple thousand in the works for next month. I'll keep everyone updated.

Also, before long (<4 weeks) I'm going to pull my front end for powder coating black, and while the pieces are being done, I'm considering trying out the new V&H cams. We'll see.

Might be cool if I did because then I'd be running another auto-tune very soon.

All about the $$$$ though....
 
First post here, just found this forum while looking for information on autotuning my FP3 that should be here today. Great info Spazz, thanks for taking the time to do it. Also thanks to those that have added info.
 
Welcome Blue Tick to SGF. There's plenty more info where that came from!
 
After about 400miles on auto tune using your suggestions my results were pretty good I felt for a first run. I went ahead and applied it to my map. I can always refer back to this session to see if I've populated any new cells on the next auto tune.

I may run it like this for a while , the responsiveness is vary noticeable , vary happy.
 

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From start to finish running completely stock setup. Took about 2k miles some of which I wasn't really trying to make it learn. I finally decided i had gotten it learn about all ot was going to so i applied and flashed. Bike runs excellent. FYI i spoke with the V&H rep and asked some questions while in Daytona for bike week and he said you don't really need to run auto tune unless you have some kind of crazy setup with unknown exhaust or intake. He said they have dynoed all the popular exhaust and intake setups and had them road tested for verification before preloading them in their database. Personal preference as to whether you run auto tune but it isn't really necessary.



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I have heard the same thing from V&H also but I call bull because you can build 2 engines side by side and there will be a difference. The guy I called BS with at Rapid City last year really didn't know that much about them and was using the standard answer for the company. So as you have seen and felt the difference with a totally stock set up.
 
Some of those reps at shows and events aren't necessarily Tech guys , there like my company's Tech support , if you have a real problem they can't trouble shoot it but they can read from a data base of solutions , once you have checked those off there stumped.
 
Hi Spazz, that’s a great overview of the autotune process. I recently got a FP3 and managed to hook it up OK and flash a canned map, but I am still struggling with a few aspects of the autotune feature. Would you be able to throw in your experience and expertise on the following questions:

1. Once the autotune process has been started, will the FP3 app save the learned results when the engine is shut off and/or when the app is closed? In other words, if I don’t want to apply the learned results after a ride, or finish the autotune process, in order to keep the map with the learned results, will the map with the results from the previous ride still be available when I open the app again and reconnect to the FP3 before the next ride?

2. What is the sequence for applying learned results? Do I hit the “Apply” button before I switch off the engine or do I shut down the engine first, then switch on the ignition again to reconnect the app and the FP3, and then hit the “Apply” button?

3. Am I correct assuming that when you apply learned results, only the green squares are flashed to the ECU?

Thanks!
 
Hi Spazz, that’s a great overview of the autotune process. I recently got a FP3 and managed to hook it up OK and flash a canned map, but I am still struggling with a few aspects of the autotune feature. Would you be able to throw in your experience and expertise on the following questions:

1. Once the autotune process has been started, will the FP3 app save the learned results when the engine is shut off and/or when the app is closed? In other words, if I don’t want to apply the learned results after a ride, or finish the autotune process, in order to keep the map with the learned results, will the map with the results from the previous ride still be available when I open the app again and reconnect to the FP3 before the next ride?

2. What is the sequence for applying learned results? Do I hit the “Apply” button before I switch off the engine or do I shut down the engine first, then switch on the ignition again to reconnect the app and the FP3, and then hit the “Apply” button?

3. Am I correct assuming that when you apply learned results, only the green squares are flashed to the ECU?

Thanks!

Welcome! Let me address your concerns:

1. Once you enter the autotune process. KEEP THE FP3 connected at all times! This is a must for the table to populate. You DO NOT need to turn your phone app on whenever you are on the bike... the FP3 learns/retains data for the duration of the autotune session AS LONG AS YOU KEEP IT CONNECTED . Each time you open the app, it will bring you right back to your current progress of the FP3. DO NOT REMOVE THE FP3 UNTIL YOU FINISH THE AUTOTUNE .

2. No need to hit APPLY each time you stop... the FP3 retains current values learned. If you ran autotune for a month without opening your app, you are still in AUTOTUNE and LEARNING as long as the FP3 stays connected. You can APPLY at anytime... but not really necessary unless your bike is running badly or irradically. Read #3

3. When you APPLY, you apply all the learned cells ( GREEN ) to the current map and it continues with the Autotune. The only drawback to APPLY is that you lose visual reference on table... which is now a clean slate. You haven't lost the learned data, just the visual of what was learned.

*** when you are happy with your autotune... you FINISH the tune and reflash with that custom autotune map.... follow the prompts on the screen within the app to complete it.***

Hope that sums it up for you....
 


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