FP3, The Auto-Tune Process Explained
- Thread starter Spazz
- Start date
OK, so back to the FP-3 Auto Tune process. It’s winter, I needed to ride and so…. I started the process by going back and reading the Spazz thread- at least twice. I took language from the thread and digested into bullets as seen below to use as learning curve guidelines. I really just wanted to pilot test in Auto Tune to learn if I could go on my HOG rides and not have to worry about erratic behavior, stalls, cut-outs, etc.. Happy to report that you can do your ‘normal’ riding just fine. Bike performs well, it just ‘ain’t all there’ because it’s gathering data to ‘get there’. Great thing about the FP-3: if you are out riding in Auto-Tune and the bike freaks out or whatever, just pull out your phone, turn off Auto Tune, and re-flash your base tune- BAM!- back in action. My original V&H ‘canned’ map worked just fine on my bike- no problems, no decal pop- great performance. I just want to see if the FP-3 can pull out some more performance.
Bike: 2015 SG Special
Miles: 10,536, was on previous FP-3 base map for 6,186 miles, installed 6/21/15
Equip: Rinehart Racing 4” Slip-ons, V&H Power Duals, Arlen Ness AC, FP-3
Tune Miles Ridden: 28
Auto Tune Base Map: 15T031978- Turn Down Slip-Ons/Power Duals/Standard Baffle, Throttle Position: Moderate
Learning Curve:
• Most of the higher RPM blocks come 2nd- 4th gear
• Do rolling starts and from 1000 rpm- 5500 rpm or to rev limiter, then hold it for 3 or 4 seconds then shift into next gear or two and let it idle down in next gear and do the same thing.
• Idle down to 1500, 2000, 2500, 3500 then SLOWLY apply throttle paying attention to throttle position up through higher rpms and just let the FP-3 learn
• Paying attention to the throttle position and holding it at full throttle will fill more blocks
• Running at 5000 rpms or higher in 1st thru 5th gear for a mile or so before shifting but doesn’t get many green blocks.
• If you hit APPLY on the FP-3, you will lose visual of the table and when you go to continue the tune, it will start with a blank grid. NOTE: Don’t hit APPLY. Complete the tuning process then hit FINISH, which will flash the data to the ECM. This slot will now become your newly tuned program.
What I Learned:
• The bike ran like crap when I turned on the Auto Tune process- would hesitate greatly at idle when applying just a little throttle. This only lasted for the first ½ mile or so- down to the stop light. During the short run I did, the bike ran decently, I just didn’t really feel the ‘core guts’??? of the engine. Do you know what I mean? Just wasn’t ‘all there’.
• Yeah, I had not ridden my bike in that RPM range for any length of period before. I was winding it out. I had never experienced hitting the ‘rev limiter’. I found out the engine sputters and hesitates. On my bike, that occurred around 6200 rpms.
• Full throttle in 3rd to 6200 rpm= 90+ mph
• Full throttle in 4th to 6200 rpm= 103 to 106 mph
• I saved a screen shot, emailed it to myself and attached it to a spreadsheet that I developed to measure progress. I will use this to target exactly where I need to focus.
• Personally- I learned many more handling characteristics of my bike: stop distance, quick stops, take- off speeds at high RPM, power and torque, etc.. I learned the bike is capable of much more than I was doing with it, and how I was able to have more confidence in my handling of the bike at those speeds and points of control. I became a better rider in 28 miles by pushing closer to the limits- not dangerous and stupidity, in a more controlled environment to learn more of the bike. Namaste- lol! I’ll be reporting progress-
• CHEERS AND MERRY CHRISTMAS!
As you can see, 28 miles for learned values doesn’t do much, but this was a pilot test.
Bike: 2015 SG Special
Miles: 10,536, was on previous FP-3 base map for 6,186 miles, installed 6/21/15
Equip: Rinehart Racing 4” Slip-ons, V&H Power Duals, Arlen Ness AC, FP-3
Tune Miles Ridden: 28
Auto Tune Base Map: 15T031978- Turn Down Slip-Ons/Power Duals/Standard Baffle, Throttle Position: Moderate
Learning Curve:
• Most of the higher RPM blocks come 2nd- 4th gear
• Do rolling starts and from 1000 rpm- 5500 rpm or to rev limiter, then hold it for 3 or 4 seconds then shift into next gear or two and let it idle down in next gear and do the same thing.
• Idle down to 1500, 2000, 2500, 3500 then SLOWLY apply throttle paying attention to throttle position up through higher rpms and just let the FP-3 learn
• Paying attention to the throttle position and holding it at full throttle will fill more blocks
• Running at 5000 rpms or higher in 1st thru 5th gear for a mile or so before shifting but doesn’t get many green blocks.
• If you hit APPLY on the FP-3, you will lose visual of the table and when you go to continue the tune, it will start with a blank grid. NOTE: Don’t hit APPLY. Complete the tuning process then hit FINISH, which will flash the data to the ECM. This slot will now become your newly tuned program.
What I Learned:
• The bike ran like crap when I turned on the Auto Tune process- would hesitate greatly at idle when applying just a little throttle. This only lasted for the first ½ mile or so- down to the stop light. During the short run I did, the bike ran decently, I just didn’t really feel the ‘core guts’??? of the engine. Do you know what I mean? Just wasn’t ‘all there’.
• Yeah, I had not ridden my bike in that RPM range for any length of period before. I was winding it out. I had never experienced hitting the ‘rev limiter’. I found out the engine sputters and hesitates. On my bike, that occurred around 6200 rpms.
• Full throttle in 3rd to 6200 rpm= 90+ mph
• Full throttle in 4th to 6200 rpm= 103 to 106 mph
• I saved a screen shot, emailed it to myself and attached it to a spreadsheet that I developed to measure progress. I will use this to target exactly where I need to focus.
• Personally- I learned many more handling characteristics of my bike: stop distance, quick stops, take- off speeds at high RPM, power and torque, etc.. I learned the bike is capable of much more than I was doing with it, and how I was able to have more confidence in my handling of the bike at those speeds and points of control. I became a better rider in 28 miles by pushing closer to the limits- not dangerous and stupidity, in a more controlled environment to learn more of the bike. Namaste- lol! I’ll be reporting progress-
• CHEERS AND MERRY CHRISTMAS!
As you can see, 28 miles for learned values doesn’t do much, but this was a pilot test.
Nice interpretation! You got the understanding down and applying the understanding to the bike to make the FP3 learn is now the key... and you are doing it.... keep it up
I am glad you are 'pushing' yourself into learning more of your abilities and of the bike.... this makes a better rider IMHO when you can go outside your comfort zone with some confidence when needed. It makes a HUGE difference.
I am glad you are 'pushing' yourself into learning more of your abilities and of the bike.... this makes a better rider IMHO when you can go outside your comfort zone with some confidence when needed. It makes a HUGE difference.
Hello, I purchased the FP3 and I installed it a couple months ago. I have dresser duals and rush mufflers and use a map that V&H recommended. I started the auto tune process at that time, but because I get a cold hesitation I would apply the tune at the end of each ride hoping the next time I rode it the hesitation would be gone. It's only been a couple hundred miles and I still get the hesitation and some deceleration popping, I'm sure it needs more run time to hopefully resolve.
Here is my question, what happens if you hit finish, then decide to auto tune again? Will it continue where you left off?
Here is my question, what happens if you hit finish, then decide to auto tune again? Will it continue where you left off?
Got my FP3 on the bike a few days ago. Been playing around with features. I've been running the auto tune and periodically updating.
Sorry if I missed this, but is there a way to see the cells completed on map that has been updated multiple times (e.g.) as it sits map status?
Sorry if I missed this, but is there a way to see the cells completed on map that has been updated multiple times (e.g.) as it sits map status?
I have auto- tuned through only a couple of cycles, but I just ride and when I finish the ride I check my phone and it shows the table and what has been completed on it. I take a screenshot to save because every time you ride, that table is going to change so by saving the screenshot, you can follow progress along. I hope that's what you meant.
And as Spazz had recommended earlier, if you hit 'Apply' after a ride, it wipes your table clean, though the accumulated data remains.
And as Spazz had recommended earlier, if you hit 'Apply' after a ride, it wipes your table clean, though the accumulated data remains.
Hesitation is normal... as well as a bit of lag in auto tune.... rough idle may be prominent as well.... this all goes away when you finish the tune
No... once you apply or finish the tune, you cannot see the table. Best thing to do is what I did... take screenshots.
Spazz,
I must say there is a very informative writ up. I don't have an FP3, I have used the Power Commander, and am now on the HD Race only Tuner, both dyno tuned. I have been curious about the ThunderMax but haven't wanted to spend that chunk yet since I bounce back an fourth on engine up grades 1st. I just wanted to chime in on how well written that was.
I must say there is a very informative writ up. I don't have an FP3, I have used the Power Commander, and am now on the HD Race only Tuner, both dyno tuned. I have been curious about the ThunderMax but haven't wanted to spend that chunk yet since I bounce back an fourth on engine up grades 1st. I just wanted to chime in on how well written that was.
FP3 Autotune
FP3 Autotune
Ok, so I haven't been riding much due to the weather. I'm 49 Green cells at 641 miles. It does take time- and miles to complete the autotune. I am using a pic of one of Spazz's completed autotunes as a measure- I think it was flashed at 94 Green squares, so I have a ways to go. I developed a spreadsheet that I update after every ride. I take a screenshot of the autotune progress and then transfer it to the spreadsheet. It allows me to see where I'm at in the tune and I jot down the areas I need to hit, Example: 1/2 throttle, 2,000 - 6,000 rpm. I'm in no rush, though if I was doing the FP3 aututone in the summer, I probably would have finished a long time ago. I'm just riding and letting the tuner do it's thing while trying to hit the throttle position/rpm blend from time to time to get some more greenies. I'm anxious to see how the bike runs after finishing the autotune.
FP3 Autotune
Ok, so I haven't been riding much due to the weather. I'm 49 Green cells at 641 miles. It does take time- and miles to complete the autotune. I am using a pic of one of Spazz's completed autotunes as a measure- I think it was flashed at 94 Green squares, so I have a ways to go. I developed a spreadsheet that I update after every ride. I take a screenshot of the autotune progress and then transfer it to the spreadsheet. It allows me to see where I'm at in the tune and I jot down the areas I need to hit, Example: 1/2 throttle, 2,000 - 6,000 rpm. I'm in no rush, though if I was doing the FP3 aututone in the summer, I probably would have finished a long time ago. I'm just riding and letting the tuner do it's thing while trying to hit the throttle position/rpm blend from time to time to get some more greenies. I'm anxious to see how the bike runs after finishing the autotune.
Attachments
Today was my first attempt at Auto-Tune. I put in about 80 miles and ended up with this.
I think I get the general idea, but was wondering if I have to "save" the progress or just make sure Auto-Tune is turned on whenever I ride?
Yes... you can alter settings within the FP3, Throttle progressiveness can be set from standard to race and each step in between. Essentially you are changing the reaction timing of the twist grip sensor giving a more 'snappy' response to your wrist action. Rev limiter can be bumped to 6200rpms ( common setting ) if you so desire. If you have decel popping issues you can play with settings there to calm it down.
Those are the 3 main areas that you can adjust to suit your wants/needs
I don't recommend altering a/f ratios and data within the tables without a good knowledge of tuning.... you really can mess things up there.
Those are the 3 main areas that you can adjust to suit your wants/needs
I don't recommend altering a/f ratios and data within the tables without a good knowledge of tuning.... you really can mess things up there.
