FP3, The Auto-Tune Process Explained
- Thread starter Spazz
- Start date
Might also be of intrest
http://tuneyourharley.com/biketech/content/harley-davidson-closed-loop-ecm-fuel-map-revealed
Blues
http://tuneyourharley.com/biketech/content/harley-davidson-closed-loop-ecm-fuel-map-revealed
Blues
I would work on it some more... you don't have any learned blocks above 40% TPS range at all...
First of all thanks Spazz for really clarifying what I thought I knew about the Auto tune process
For info to others out there
I had a horrible time at first
I just wouldn't tune and I was throwing codes all over the place
I then got consistent conflicting codes
Run lean forward/run rich forward etc
I talked to V&H and they said they were sure my O2 sensors were the problem
Guess What?
The guy that installed my headers had the O2 sensors
Backwards!
LOL
It ain't gonna tune that way.
We live we learn!
Thanks again Spazz
For info to others out there
I had a horrible time at first
I just wouldn't tune and I was throwing codes all over the place
I then got consistent conflicting codes
Run lean forward/run rich forward etc
I talked to V&H and they said they were sure my O2 sensors were the problem
Guess What?
The guy that installed my headers had the O2 sensors
Backwards!
LOL
It ain't gonna tune that way.
We live we learn!
Thanks again Spazz
Been Auto tuning all day and made a graph of all the green boxes
I don't have many populated above the 20-40%
I road the bike very aggressively at times and am wondering if the graphs will look less populated in the higher throttle twist areas cause of my exhaust and muffler combo and I have throttle sensitivity turned to max
In other words the bike is going too fast to stay in these blocks
I hit over 100 MPH several times and when I get above 4500 RPMs
And go through the gears I'm at 80 to 90 in no time
I have an aggressive base tune to start with so I'm not sure I can populate larger throttle positions without flying off the road
?????
I don't have many populated above the 20-40%
I road the bike very aggressively at times and am wondering if the graphs will look less populated in the higher throttle twist areas cause of my exhaust and muffler combo and I have throttle sensitivity turned to max
In other words the bike is going too fast to stay in these blocks
I hit over 100 MPH several times and when I get above 4500 RPMs
And go through the gears I'm at 80 to 90 in no time
I have an aggressive base tune to start with so I'm not sure I can populate larger throttle positions without flying off the road
?????
If you can monitor your tps% while you ride ( not staring at it of course) you can dial in and concentrate on those blocks still needing data...and remember. ... you will never achieve 100%. You do what you can do to the BEST OF your ability.
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Sent from my Note4 using Tapatalk
Spazz, just wondering if you did or could post your last screen shot before you "finished" on that last 600 mile AT you did. Just curious what that looked like. I also reread your explanation again and think I have a better feel for trying to hit that lower right area. And its not an issue for the engine hitting the rev limiter? I was hesitant to do that thinking it might not be a good thing to do. Thanks again for all your help.
FB
FB
OK, Finished up my AT session yesterday and had 76 fields completed. Did not apply because I wanted to keep the reference. Reread Spazz's guide and did a lot of wot to the limiter. Also ran in 3rd at 4500-5500 on the hiway some also. Stopped for lunch and took this screen shot. 90 fields, not bad and I added some at 40%tps or better. Also the rpm range up to 5500.
I was pretty happy thinking I'm going in the right direction. Drove home and decided I wanted another screen shot. Turn the AT on and it shows only 76 learned cell. Like I lost the 14 I added today. Wondering what the heck going on. Any input?
I was pretty happy thinking I'm going in the right direction. Drove home and decided I wanted another screen shot. Turn the AT on and it shows only 76 learned cell. Like I lost the 14 I added today. Wondering what the heck going on. Any input?
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It's not as easy to autotune as some would think... lol!!!! Getting it to tune is the learning curve.....
As some of you have already found out, you must FORCE your riding style into the areas that you want it to learn... and not just once or twice... it's a crap-shoot on how many times you must be in that area and for how long... no one really knows.
Some have experienced 'lost blocks' from one screenshot to another, this seems common... as if the first 'learned data' was not good enough and wanted to relearn that area... this is JUST AN ASSUMPTION on my part, but only makes sense to me at this point.
As some of you have already found out, you must FORCE your riding style into the areas that you want it to learn... and not just once or twice... it's a crap-shoot on how many times you must be in that area and for how long... no one really knows.
Some have experienced 'lost blocks' from one screenshot to another, this seems common... as if the first 'learned data' was not good enough and wanted to relearn that area... this is JUST AN ASSUMPTION on my part, but only makes sense to me at this point.
Yes the loosing of blocks was driving me crazy but some filled back in others didn't and I'm good with that. Runs oh so much better and a lot of the decel pop is gone. Haven't really had a chance to ride it too much after the flash
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Tom
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Tom
Ok now that I'm awake (Nightshift) I will share some of the things I learned doing my auto tune and maybe help someone get theirs done faster.
Did a long auto tune 1400 miles but a lot of that was highway driving around 3000 rpm and you will need this to fill blocks. Found out most of my higher rpm blocks came in 2nd thru 4th gear.
I would do rolling starts from 1000rpms u thru 5500 or to rev limiter at 6200 to 6500 then hold it for 3 or 4 seconds then shift to next gear or two and let it idle down in next gear do the same thing. I tried running at 5000rpms or higher in 1st thru 5th gear for a mile or so before shifting but didn't get many green blocks that way. I started to idle down to 1500, 2000, 2500, 3500 then apply throttle paying attention to throttle position up through higher rpms and just let the thing learn.
I started to pay a little more attention to the throttle position and holding it at full throttle started to fill more blocks and as I changing throttle position and let it slowly build up through the rpm range it learned more then just a fast roll on. This works in your lower gears as you can't achieve this same result in the 4th thru 6th gears unless your out on the Bonneville salt flats lol. I became pretty frustrated before I started trying different ways to get the blocks filled and to stay as I would loose some blocks along this journey. Spazz probably got tired of getting texts from me about it but he kept me going in the right direction.
It was trial and error and I feel I should have all the block filled but unless your on a dyno and watching a screen you never will get that. Not sure if it's that important anyway. Bike runs good and I hope this helps someone else.
If I'm not making sense give me a PM and we'll talk about it.
Did a long auto tune 1400 miles but a lot of that was highway driving around 3000 rpm and you will need this to fill blocks. Found out most of my higher rpm blocks came in 2nd thru 4th gear.
I would do rolling starts from 1000rpms u thru 5500 or to rev limiter at 6200 to 6500 then hold it for 3 or 4 seconds then shift to next gear or two and let it idle down in next gear do the same thing. I tried running at 5000rpms or higher in 1st thru 5th gear for a mile or so before shifting but didn't get many green blocks that way. I started to idle down to 1500, 2000, 2500, 3500 then apply throttle paying attention to throttle position up through higher rpms and just let the thing learn.
I started to pay a little more attention to the throttle position and holding it at full throttle started to fill more blocks and as I changing throttle position and let it slowly build up through the rpm range it learned more then just a fast roll on. This works in your lower gears as you can't achieve this same result in the 4th thru 6th gears unless your out on the Bonneville salt flats lol. I became pretty frustrated before I started trying different ways to get the blocks filled and to stay as I would loose some blocks along this journey. Spazz probably got tired of getting texts from me about it but he kept me going in the right direction.
It was trial and error and I feel I should have all the block filled but unless your on a dyno and watching a screen you never will get that. Not sure if it's that important anyway. Bike runs good and I hope this helps someone else.
If I'm not making sense give me a PM and we'll talk about it.
Just installed mine and flashed the canned map Monday night...set it up for AutoTune at that time. Have only been able to ride locally (to work and back) for the last couple of days. The weekend should give me more road time. This thread should give me a little knowledge to get the table filled in as quickly as I can. Thanks for the write-up.
The same Forced learn approach will work with Power Vision also.
This is 2 trips to and from work roughly 20 miles each way using Spazz's method.
Sent from the mobile leash
This is 2 trips to and from work roughly 20 miles each way using Spazz's method.
Sent from the mobile leash
Very nice Bluebowtie it looks as though you got a bunch of box's filled in in a short amount of riding time I have not tried to Auto Tune with my Power Vision yet I will be trying this feature out shortly I do like the fact that with the PV mounted to my handle bars I will be able to see the auto tune screen and know what areas of the tune I need to work on while I'm ridingThe same Forced learn approach will work with Power Vision also.
This is 2 trips to and from work roughly 20 miles each way using Spazz's method.
Sent from the mobile leash
