120 to 114 to 113 Twin Cam Engine Rebuild

Still putting this bike back together. Here's a couple pics comparing the H-D high flow exhaust to stock. No cat converters in this stepped diameter head pipe (dual cats, one in each muffler). This is the only 2:1:2 system I've seen that flows the same from both mufflers. Notice the improved design of the merge collector and crossover pipe. It also has wideband O2 bungs near the exhaust ports. The dual cats do not restrict too much and present no heat problem as they are well behind the rider.

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I just checked the steering neck bearing preload. They were too loose, no free play, but they did need to be tightened up. This can have a big impact on the handling of your bike. Steering Head Adjustment
 
I'm using a Power Vision tuner with Target-Tune wideband O2 sensors. Here's the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) and spark advance tables I'm going with. The VE tables are from a dyno tune with the same cam profile and exhaust. I've adjusted for the change in engine displacement from 120 to 114.

These are close to where my dyno tune was with some smoothing and a few tweeks from looking at a bunch of H-D tuning files.

afr.pngSpark.png
 
Hulkss-I think you really need to have a video of the startup to post…I know there are a lot of us out here anxiously waiting!!


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Finally finished assembly:) Here's how it looks. It looks better inside the motor where I did all the work.

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Here's a totally boring video of the engine starting and idling.

[video]https://1drv.ms/v/s!AjfwUi_I-YFsg84nZdMklY8Nrqmbtg[/video]

First ride tomorrow!! Break-in with the Line2Line piston coating is a little different. Just remember, no heavy throttle stuff until totally up to temperature - about ten miles. The break-in will only be about 20 miles. Then I'll drain the oil and switch to synthetic.

Line2Line Break-in

BTW, I changed the fluid in the brakes and clutch. It looked pretty crappy. It's the first change since new in 2014.
 
May be a boring video, Hulkss, but it's got to be a great feeling for you!! Nice job…great build! Just one more question, though. What are the rest of us supposed to do now that we don't have this to follow? Oh yah…it's riding season!!!


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Amazing thread Hulkss, thank you for taking the time share it! Hope you have a great trip to Alaska!

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What are the rest of us supposed to do now that we don't have this to follow?

Not to worry, more to follow. :(

On the maiden voyage I was getting too much oil and case pressure at higher RPM and oil was spewing out the push rod tubes. At least that is what I think is happening. I'll tear into it tomorrow. I hope this will be quick.
 
Wow, really sorry to hear that Hulkss. I'm sure you'll get it figured out though and hopefully it ends up being minor.


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Yup, it sux. But hey, it can always be fixed given time, effort, and $$.
 
Yeah, that is high for 3K rpm. Mine is between 47-52 at 3K or 70 mph. I wonder if the oil pressure relief spring in the cam plate is sticking or it's too stiff?
 
It's supposed to have been set at the S&S factory to 40 psi. When it relieves, the bypass oil goes to the pump inlet. So it just goes around and around and does not have to be scavenged from the cam chest. If there is no proper bypass flow, I suppose the oil pump could make the mess I had. I did not seem to be getting any oil out of the breathers.
 
I removed a valve cover and also removed a breather bolt from the air cleaner. Then I put a rubber tube in the breather bolt hole. I could blow into the engine but not suck air out. THAT IS BACKWARDS!! Turns out I put the breather baffles in upside down (item 4 in the picture).

breather.jpg

Hopefully no other problems were caused by pressurizing the engine. No wonder it was blowing oil out the push rod tubes. That also explains the high oil pressure sensor readings.

I had my local dealer order me new breathers just to be safe. Should be up and running next week.
 
Opened the cam chest to check the oil pressure regulator and have a look to see if everything is OK. No problems found. All looking perfect after my Backward Breather ride.

IMG_1184.jpg
 
I'm running Harley SE 259E profiles ground onto Andrews gear drive cam blanks by Black Widow Cams. Using S&S gear drive components.


From BW cams:
Camshaft description BW SS59E REPLACES SCREAMING EAGLE 259E
GEAR DRIVE ONLY ALL YEARS special order only
So if you like your Screaming Eagle cams But want Gear Drive LOOK NO FURTHER.

Camshaft timing information measured @ .053
OPEN CLOSE TDC DURATION VALVE LIFT

Intake 19 47 .182" 246 .572"

Exhaust 58 12 .156" 252 .573"

Overlap 31 LSA 109
 
My new engine is running great now with the breathers in correctly:p No apparent issues at this point. The engine is mechanically very quiet, much more so than before. I rode it without ear plugs and all I could hear was the rumble of the exhaust. Before rebuilding I hated to ride without ear plugs as the engine made quite a disturbing clatter.

You may have read that I installed a Rekluse EXP Auto-Clutch pack into the CVO clutch assembly that I am using. This works great and is fun to ride too! Just twist the throttle to take off. Shift normally with the clutch or with-out if that's your style. When slowing for a stop you never need to touch the clutch. You get normal engine braking at high speed. As you slow down, engine rpm drops, and near idle the clutch will automatically disengage. Then you just shift down through the gears to first while you're still rolling and you're ready to take off. No clutch work at all. If you're a throttle blipper you will need to pull the clutch lever in or shift to neutral. Twist the throttle in gear with the clutch lever out and off you go.

Rekluse
 
Since the bike is now up and running, I treated it to some new fender bling. Sure to add a few more HP.
And it's totally fitting to have skulls on the push rod tubes that spewed oil all over the place when the crankcase pressurized. I'm sure they are silently laughing.

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